Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: nicks on March 07, 2011, 10:55:39 AM
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(http://i.imgur.com/iSOVX.jpg)
Bat is a Mongoose CoR3 purchased in December from Pro Direct Cricket. Any advice appreciated.
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I'd have thought so, have you contacted PDC? Imagine it complicates things a bit being an online retailer
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I haven't yet, I'm planning to give them a call but I'm pretty sure what there response is going to be be. Might just contact Mongoose directly and ask how much they'll charge for a repair.
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If it was only bought in December there will be at least 6 - 12 months where the retailers responsibility is to get the bat repaired!
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This should be repairable with some glue and I suspect you should also have a toe guard fitted.
It looks as if you have been using it in the indoor nets and "tapping" the ground with it quite hard - one of the reasons it may have split is because it may need a little more oil around the toe and it is still a little soft around the toe and could do with a little more knocing in.
This also looks like "cheap ball" damage :(
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It looks as if you have been using it in the indoor nets and "tapping" the ground with it quite hard - one of the reasons it may have split is because it may need a little more oil around the toe and it is still a little soft around the toe and could do with a little more knocing in.
This also looks like "cheap ball" damage :(
Sounds like someone has previously heard all the retailer excuses!
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The damage was done in the second session it was used in indoor nets. I did specifically check the balls being used (most of which are readers match balls from last year) and spent plenty of time (but obviously not enough) on knocking in the edges and toe. It was just a full ball and unfortunately the bat has died!
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or seen lots of broken bats at net sessions... it is one of the most common crimes in cricket that I see - people using a new bat before it is properly knocked in and oiled in the pre-seasons nets and it cracks when a team "mate" using a hard bat breaker of a ball throws in the yorker.
I do really sympathise with Nicks on this as it is soo depressing as your new pride and joy gets cracked like this - and remember willow is a soft wood and will break and crack, it is a matter of when, not if. The good news is that the above crack can be repaired easily and the middle will be fine :)
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Thanks, will contact Pro Direct and see what happens.
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ive seen 3 bats break in net sessions so far, and its actually astounded me... on a positive note it helped me sell a couple of my bats :)
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Nothing to worry about that crack, just glue it and gently clamp.
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... spent plenty of time (but obviously not enough) on knocking in the edges and toe. It was just a full ball and unfortunately the bat has died!
Mate, toe does not look knocked in at all. The edges are still sharp, you should round them off. Also, like someone else said, the toe looks quite dry. I'd say glue and clamp it first. Leave it clamped for a day or two. Then oil the toe 3-4 times. Then knock it in properly.
Search the forum for knocking tips, there's been plenty of posts already...
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I wouldn't even bother repairing it, the crack is tiny and will not need a repair unless it gets worse, if you do repair then just fill with super glue or wood glue, just to fill it, no clamping required in my opinion.
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I wouldn't even bother repairing it, the crack is tiny and will not need a repair unless it gets worse, if you do repair then just fill with super glue or wood glue, just to fill it, no clamping required in my opinion.
I agree or if you have some bat repair tape lying around, just fill the gap with good quality glue, agitate the crack and keep puting in more gluw unitil you are satisfied the glue is in there good and proper and than get some repair tape, stick one end on the face and than tightly wrap it over the crack and stick it on the back, leave it for 24 hours, than sand any excess glue off. I normally use Evo-Stik Weatherproof Wood Adhesive and than apply a superglue layer on top of the glued area to give a good seal as well.
Then put a toe gurad on before you play anymore with it. Not everyone has clamps and more often than not people end up damaging the bat if they havent repaired using one before. Bat repair tape is a safe option :)
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Mate, toe does not look knocked in at all. The edges are still sharp, you should round them off. Also, like someone else said, the toe looks quite dry. I'd say glue and clamp it first. Leave it clamped for a day or two. Then oil the toe 3-4 times. Then knock it in properly.
Search the forum for knocking tips, there's been plenty of posts already...
Fair enough, the toe was given a fair hammering but I was under the impression that it's not a good idea to knock in the edges/toe at an angle?
Thanks for everyone's advice, Pro Direct are going to have a look at it, so I'll wait and see what options are available.
It's a lesson learnt anyway. It's not like I'm completely new to this, I've had a few new bats over the years. Guess I'm lucky to have survived so long without this happening. :D
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Just to update. Pro Direct have provided an excellent after sales service and, after having contacted Mongoose, offered to replace the bat with this year's equivalent model, the CoR3 premium, despite it being more expensive.
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Mate, toe does not look knocked in at all. The edges are still sharp, you should round them off. Also, like someone else said, the toe looks quite dry.
What the consensus on oiling the toe?
I'm planning on applying an anti-scuff sheet after knocking in the new bat, but I'm not going to apply oil to the face. Incidentally I see some people recommend oiling the face before knocking in, am I likely to cause damage to the face by knocking in without it having been oiled?
Is it ok to oil the exposed area between the bottom of the face of the bat and bottom of the anti-scuff sheet after the sheet has been applied, or will this cause the sheet to peel away? Or should I only oil the face of the toe (i.e the area the bat rests on when standing upright), and should this be done before or after applying the sheet?
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Opinions seem to vary
This is what Laver recommends ...
http://www.abcofcricket.com/Article_Library/art47/art48/art48.htm (http://www.abcofcricket.com/Article_Library/art47/art48/art48.htm)
Mr.Millichamp says oil that toe well ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWBxiPJYvLw&feature=player_embedded (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWBxiPJYvLw&feature=player_embedded)
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What the consensus on oiling the toe?
I'm planning on applying an anti-scuff sheet after knocking in the new bat, but I'm not going to apply oil to the face. Incidentally I see some people recommend oiling the face before knocking in, am I likely to cause damage to the face by knocking in without it having been oiled?
Is it ok to oil the exposed area between the bottom of the face of the bat and bottom of the anti-scuff sheet after the sheet has been applied, or will this cause the sheet to peel away? Or should I only oil the face of the toe (i.e the area the bat rests on when standing upright), and should this be done before or after applying the sheet?
You can apply the anti-scuff to the face before you knock it in. It won't hurt, and as has been said on other threads, does the job of retaining moisture that oil does.
In addition, if you buy a Newbery with a hammer edge sheet on it, you are expected to knock it in with this in place and the bat is not oiled before the sheet is applied. This is also the case when they do a refurb.
with the toe, you should oil it, mainly as protection against damp pitches if you don't have a toe guard.
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So applying oil at the toe of the bat after the anti-scuff has been applied shouldn't affect its stickiness? Also, would it be an idea to round off the edges before it's applied?
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Oiling just prevents surface cracking and bat getting dry. It wont matter if you knock it in before or after oiling but personally rolling, oiling would be the first two things id do, and after 5 days (when oil has dried) id apply a sleeve/anti scuff
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I've applied 4 or 5 coats of oil to the toe of the new bat and have been very gentle with knocking in but surface cracks are appearing at the front of the toe. What's the best course of action?
(http://i.imgur.com/RnM6i.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3gasx.jpg)
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I would put a PVA glue in the crack and then a toe guard over the top.
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I don't tend to use toe guards as there a pain in the backside to put on properly. I thought about sanding away the cracks and re-oiling but if you think pva glue will do the job I might give that a go.
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I was always toldnot to knock in the toe area (or at least not too hard) as it caused this very sort of thing to happen.
No idea if it's true or not mind you.
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i was told that the toe doesnt need knocking in. just the edges rounding off. dont know if this is right or not.
i dont really like oiling toe's, i prefer fitting a toe guard on as it would bind the toe together and make it stronger as well as reducing the moisture uptake.
i dont think its that bad to be honest
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Toe requires most knocking I would say
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i was told that the toe doesnt need knocking in. just the edges rounding off. dont know if this is right or not.
i dont really like oiling toe's, i prefer fitting a toe guard on as it would bind the toe together and make it stronger as well as reducing the moisture uptake.
i dont think its that bad to be honest
Love the logic. Just oil it and knock it in properly next time - that means loads of toe time. If cracks open up like this (and it's hardly fatal), just stick on some PVC and gently sand down. If you are really worried, stick some fibre glass tape around the toe and that ought to bind it together pretty well.
Here's what you can do with a bit of glue:-
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_blLLx3gm1k0/TNb59STwP4I/AAAAAAAAB18/oKkLmpEHW3Q/s640/DSC_0269.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_blLLx3gm1k0/TNb59AIwcII/AAAAAAAAB14/wy2YLx92ytQ/s640/DSC_0268.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_blLLx3gm1k0/TNb58kcI0qI/AAAAAAAAB1w/T8MjGwsQo0U/s640/DSC_0266.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_blLLx3gm1k0/TNc2MJDEa9I/AAAAAAAAB2M/KpqiSU5ebVI/s512/DSC_0271.jpg)
And it's still going strong!
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Fletch does that thing have just 3 1/2 grains? :o Another exhibit for the argument that grains aren't the "be all and end all" indicator of a bat's quality!
Nicks, did you knock in the edges of the toe (make them curl over)? That would prevent the stiff surface layer from separating from the rest of the wood. Anyway, given that those cracks are tiny, I would recommend putting some superglue in them. PVA might not soak in well. If really prefer using PVA, try diluting it with a *little* water, just enough to make it soak into the crack.
A couple days after glueing, you can put some shoe goo on the toe.
Just my .02
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ask yourself, why are so many manufacturers incurring extra cost and putting on toe guards?
they are not hard to put on.
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ask yourself, why are so many manufacturers incurring extra cost and putting on toe guards?
they are not hard to put on.
Because they can often be used to hide defects in the willow is one reason.
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Nicks, did you knock in the edges of the toe (make them curl over)? That would prevent the stiff surface layer from separating from the rest of the wood. Anyway, given that those cracks are tiny, I would recommend putting some superglue in them. PVA might not soak in well. If really prefer using PVA, try diluting it with a *little* water, just enough to make it soak into the crack.
A couple days after glueing, you can put some shoe goo on the toe.
Just my .02
Went for the superglue option, it's survived an outdoor net so fingers crossed should make it for the start of the season. :D