Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: tim2000s on January 15, 2013, 01:40:35 PM
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We get questions on this topic continuously, so here's a thread to describe the process to go through when removing stickers and scuff sheet.
1. Find yourself a hairdryer. Set it to warm and heat up the stickers/anti-scuff that you wish to remove. This loosens the glue and makes it a lot easier to get them off.
2. Pull the sticky stuff off across the width of the bat rather than down the length. This reduces the risk of tearing chunks of willow out of the face of the bat. Whilst removing the stickers/sheet continue to warm with the hairdryer.
3. You are likely to have glue residue left. There are a number of ways of removing this. You can use white spirit on a clean cloth to rub the glue off, use a Stanley knife blade held at 90 degrees to the face of the bat to scrape it off, or use an electric sander to sand it off, although this does clog the sandpaper.
4. Sand down the entire bat, using increasingly finer grades of sandpaper to get the perfect finish, and if required, apply a layer of wax and buff to a finish.
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good advice :D
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sounds like you know what your doing tim! :D
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Preemptive questions
What grade of sandpaper and will the white spirit effect the bat
Oooo what wax and when you say Buff do you mean buff in a fitness sense or a polishy type thing...
;)
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will the type of scuff sheet affect how much heat you need to put on the bat?
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will the type of scuff sheet affect how much heat you need to put on the bat?
just enough to melt the glue it should make it easier to pull off.
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I would prefer something like De-Solv-It over white spirit. It's awesome at getting rid of sticky tape residue. It's citrus based so should be kinder on willow too?
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Preemptive questions
What grade of sandpaper and will the white spirit effect the bat
if the bat has markers where the stickers are left.. i go 120,400,600,2000(just because i have some left over from wet sanding bodywork) and i allways wondered if the white spirit will effect the bat lol
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ive never used white spirit or nail polish remover to get rid of the sticker residue. ive always been concerned if it does anything to the willow so will stick with my trusty blade. ive never had any problems with it damaging the willow.
sandpaper - depending on the condition of the bat id start around 120-150,180, 240, 320 and 400. seems to give a nice finish
i use a polishing compound and motor mounted buffing wheel. you can always tell if you have sanded it properly as it will gleam if you have but look slightly dull if you havent
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Even more concise:
More in the vein of angst and worry removal - send it to one of the top guys on here for a refurb. Money well spent and you know your bat will come back looking mint.
;)
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Great advice here. Will have a go tonight and see what happens!
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little bit linseed oil over the sticky residue and sandpaper and then a knife does the trick for me everytime...
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little bit linseed oil over the sticky residue and sandpaper and then a knife does the trick for me everytime...
Same idea works for me .
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What a brilliant thread. Thanks to all for the tips.
I have just copied and pasted this into word and forwarded to a team mate who is attempting this as we speak.
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little bit linseed oil over the sticky residue and sandpaper and then a knife does the trick for me everytime...
You mean sandpaper it while the oil is still wet? Or leave it to dry for a while first?
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Found this thread so useful...
Used the hair dryer to remover the back "swishes" from my Gray Nicolls Quantum and then sanded of the horrible sticker residue and it looks great :D ill whack up some pictures tomorrow. Will get round to oiling the back but the sticker mark isn't to obvious after sanding so might not bother 8)
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So if i use mineral spirit or turpentine it is no good for the willow. This is in order to remove the glue residue.
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So if i use mineral spirit or turpentine it is no good for the willow. This is in order to remove the glue residue.
I have used white spirit before to remove glue from stickers and it has never damaged the willow or the glue in the splice.
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I have used white spirit before to remove glue from stickers and it has never damaged the willow or the glue in the splice.
I've used it on the edges to get fibre scuff off. As little as possible but it does help. Used it in combination with wire wool occasionally, though this can mark any existing cracks so may require another go with sandpaper.
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Really useful! Thanks
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Julian Millichamp suggested to me that after taking the scuff sheet off, leave the bat overnight and the sticky glue dries and is then really easy to sand off. I haven't tried it yet but will be giving it a go next time.
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I like to use the oil method to get rid of the sticky residue however instead of using the Stanley knife a pair of bluntish scissors open to scrape the glue of always does the trick however I generally just use 120 sandpaper especially on high end bats
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I use DIY sticky stuff remover to remove sticker and scuff sheet glue residue applied to a linen rag
it leaves the bat nice and clean with minimal effort and does not clog the willow or damage the splice glue.
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1 of the best topics I've read on here, great advice from everyone.
I need some GM Flare stickers, can someone point me in the right direction to find some? The ones I see on Ebay look terrible (fake) I may be incorrect?
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It's extremely difficult to find real or decent quality fake Gm stickers as I there embossed design and gm are very careful with who is able to print them
1 of the best topics I've read on here, great advice from everyone.
I need some GM Flare stickers, can someone point me in the right direction to find some? The ones I see on Ebay look terrible (fake) I may be incorrect?
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Heat Gun but you need to be careful.
If you do it right, the glue bond between the wood and the glue is weaker then the bond between the decal and the glue, so should peel off nicely.
White spirit THEN sand to get rid of the glue residue works an absolute treat!
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I've read up numerous topics on this and had a go on Tuesday on a GM bat that needs some love (Pictures to follow in a seperate thread) however...
The bat is quite old and I still managed to lift quite a bit of willow up, i've cut the loose strands off with a knife but there's some half deep gouges in there, any advice as what to do with these? I was going to give the whole face a good sand anyway, oil and add a scuff but before I do that should I sand down to compltely flatten out the grooves of the lifted wood or not?
Liam
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I've read up numerous topics on this and had a go on Tuesday on a GM bat that needs some love (Pictures to follow in a seperate thread) however...
The bat is quite old and I still managed to lift quite a bit of willow up, i've cut the loose strands off with a knife but there's some half deep gouges in there, any advice as what to do with these? I was going to give the whole face a good sand anyway, oil and add a scuff but before I do that should I sand down to compltely flatten out the grooves of the lifted wood or not?
Liam
If you can collect a fair amount of English willow sanding dust mix it with a little bit of wood/ova glue and place in these gaps leaving over night to dry in the right position then resand
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What about getting stickers back on?
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Managed to get them off with ease whereas I was struggling before! Cheers
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thanks for the info
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Another product to remove sticky residue is De-solv-it. It has a natural citrus base which shouldn't affect the wood if you are worried about using Turps or White spirit. I got mine from Bunnings in Aus, but I'm sure you could source the equivelent from Homebase or B&Q for those in the UK.
Worked really well, just applied it with an old dry rag. Then after rubbing in for a bit I used the back of a butter knife to scrape off.
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Another product to remove sticky residue is De-solv-it. It has a natural citrus base which shouldn't affect the wood if you are worried about using Turps or White spirit. I got mine from Bunnings in Aus, but I'm sure you could source the equivelent from Homebase or B&Q for those in the UK.
Worked really well, just applied it with an old dry rag. Then after rubbing in for a bit I used the back of a butter knife to scrape off.
Yup, I used that.
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Last year I got a pre-knocked bat that wasn't really knocked in. I didn't get a chance to use the bat as I hated it and usually picked up one of the team bats. Since the bat was sitting in my garage through the long winter decided to oil and knock it myself.
Removed the stickers and scuff sheet with hair dryer and a product called Goo-Gone pro similar to de-solv-it. I was able to get rid of all of the gum with no trouble and went ahead with a fine 180 sand paper and sanded the bat a little.
At least some oiling tonight and knocking in over the weekend will make this bat useful enough for pre-season practice before I get a new bat.
Thanks for all the great tips.
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Cleaning up my blank bat this week
Hair dryer and goo-gone have been a big help
Wish I had pics of before
Here is one after sanding and oil
(http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t518/i12breakfree/CricDeals-stock/90DB3B56-5D24-4B3C-8AFA-FD931E85F549_zpshjr3cixn.jpg) (http://s1063.photobucket.com/user/i12breakfree/media/CricDeals-stock/90DB3B56-5D24-4B3C-8AFA-FD931E85F549_zpshjr3cixn.jpg.html)
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Great thread. I'm planning on refurbing my two lavers during the off season. Both have extra tec facing which I've never really liked on my bats so will be nuding them up completely stickers and all.
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Its always a sticky situation lol :D
(no pun intended)
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My MB Malik before and after removing the stickers, sanding and oiling...
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t318/kalyan111/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0097_zpsa18f11ce.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/kalyan111/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0097_zpsa18f11ce.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t318/kalyan111/Mobile%20Uploads/df4f3e0a-0860-4a16-b7ad-70e88926fde3_zps583802cd.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/kalyan111/media/Mobile%20Uploads/df4f3e0a-0860-4a16-b7ad-70e88926fde3_zps583802cd.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t318/kalyan111/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104501_zps767c4e15.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/kalyan111/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104501_zps767c4e15.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t318/kalyan111/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104510_zps200f9507.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/kalyan111/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104510_zps200f9507.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t318/kalyan111/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104446_zps55ce9a2f.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/kalyan111/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140401_104446_zps55ce9a2f.jpg.html)
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I'm about to refurb something I acquired on the cheap BUT.....the bat had a face sheet the entire length of the face, including going over the stickers. Now it's a Salix and wanting to keep the stickers I managed to peel off the face sheet and keep them intact. However they are obviously sticky. What's the best thing to remove said stickiness?
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I'm refurbing right now and just gone through the sticky removing, use some linseed oil on the stickers, works a treat.
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Double-D eucalyptus oil. Extremely effective.
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Hi, great thread this. I've got a nice Charlie French bat with a fibre glass scuff sheet that I would like to remove. Do I fellow the same steps as removing any scuff sheet or are there any hints/tips for specifically removing fibre glass scuff sheets?
Thanks.
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Fibre scuff sheets typically don't come off as easily. I'd recommend following the steps as outlined, using heat to try and lift the sheet, but you are likely to need to use either white spirit or sanding to remove what remains. Typically fibre sheets 'rip' inconsistently along the fibres so it doesn't all come off in one piece.
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will using the blow dryer minimize chances of wood coming off with the sheet?
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Almost certainly! I did not use it enough and got a tiny bit of take up but I am sure if I did it would have been fine and go really slow!
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will using the blow dryer minimize chances of wood coming off with the sheet?
Yes but the real key to minimizing damage to the face is to gently remove the sheet horizontally not vertically apologises if you are aware of this.
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one of my bats is making a slightly hollow sound towards the bottom of the stickers. I cannot see any cracking in the stickers that would indicate splitting. What I would like to do is lift the sticker, have a look, repair if necessary and re-glue the stickers back down.
the question is what glue can I use to re-glue the stickers.
I don't want to send it to a bat maker as I want to keep the original stickers.
Cheers
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Pritt stick or PVA will do the trick mate
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Couple of points to address. Whits spirit will not damage your bat which seems to be a concern. Its used by most carpenters to clean wood because it has few impurities and evaporates quickly so it doesn't raise the grain. Fine wire wool is great for a final polish with wax, but don't use it if there are still and fine cracks or splinters on the surface as it will catch on them.
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Pritt stick or PVA will do the trick mate
one of my bats is making a slightly hollow sound towards the bottom of the stickers. I cannot see any cracking in the stickers that would indicate splitting. What I would like to do is lift the sticker, have a look, repair if necessary and re-glue the stickers back down.
the question is what glue can I use to re-glue the stickers.
I don't want to send it to a bat maker as I want to keep the original stickers.
Cheers
Saved me asking the very same question.
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I just purchased a GN100 scoop (new model) on eBay and stickers are crooked on front.
Are modern stickers easier to remove ? I also want to re attach after ?
(http://s17.postimg.org/jyzdac0wb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/jyzdac0wb/)
(http://s17.postimg.org/uxamsiphn/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/uxamsiphn/)
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I just purchased a GN100 scoop (new model) on eBay and stickers are crooked on front.
Are modern stickers easier to remove ? I also want to re attach after ?
([url]http://s17.postimg.org/jyzdac0wb/image.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://postimg.org/image/jyzdac0wb/[/url])
([url]http://s17.postimg.org/uxamsiphn/image.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://postimg.org/image/uxamsiphn/[/url])
If they're crooked I'd be worried they're not real, but if you're happy that's all that matters.
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It has the scoop and looks real. It was also only $70 AUS including postage so that it is why I am not going to be an idiot and complain about it. Too much stress when the bat actually looks reasonable.
I would be happy to try and remove / reapply sticker hence the question .
It's actually a harrow and I bought it as a sentimental item as my first proper bat as a child
was a size 6 scoop
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Removed stickers using hair drier. Found knot which explains.
Restickered
(http://s11.postimg.org/icld2bbjj/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/icld2bbjj/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/kelugk9in/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/kelugk9in/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/4k6y6okrz/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4k6y6okrz/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/gnc9u8vu7/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gnc9u8vu7/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/xcib3whtb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/xcib3whtb/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/ag0vu3033/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ag0vu3033/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/subey2cdr/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/subey2cdr/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/mycvwx7ov/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mycvwx7ov/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/nce7wirsf/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/nce7wirsf/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/wlge6n0of/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/wlge6n0of/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/4zi7zp6pb/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4zi7zp6pb/)
(http://s11.postimg.org/44r2zx9gv/image.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/44r2zx9gv/)
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This is a great thread, thank you!
I'm going to be giving my bat a service over the next week or so, so this will help immensely!
Thanks again
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Guys, I have a nice vintage bat that has fibreglass tape over the face and it also covers the back sticker. The willow doesn't looks too bad underneath (guess it was just for protection) so started removing the tape, but it has perished so it splinters when I try to remove it, leaving quite a lot of residue.
I will probably use a blade plus white spirit on the face, but the question is how do I clean it off the sticker without damaging it, will Sticky stuff remover/De-solv-it work without taking the sticker off as well?
Thanks,
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@Seniorplayer and @wayward_hayward
Guys, please see my post above, any help would be great. Thanks
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@Chalkie personally for the tape over the stickers, pull the tape off to get the most off as you can, it shouldn't pull the stickers up, then you are likely to have the fibre left over. I'd use nail polish remover pads to rub this off and it should leave the stickers clean
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Cheers tom, will wait till my wife is out then raid her makeup cupboard so I can give that a go
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If you want to avoid an angry wife just buy a tub of Acetone from your local hardwear store, it's a lot cheaper than nail polish remover, though she might figure that out and start stealing it!
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Can anyone advise, that if I remove my scuff sheet will I need to sand the whole bat down or can I get away with just putting a new scuff on top?
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Can anyone advise, that if I remove my scuff sheet will I need to sand the whole bat down or can I get away with just putting a new scuff on top?
Sand to remove any remaining adhesive the. Alight oil/wax let that dry then add a new scuff
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I have just started to sand back a 2004ish Kookaburra Belta (simply doing it because I love the profile)
I am having a hard time getting of the tan lines from where the old stickers were, any suggestions?
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Hi all,
I am planning on doing referbing my bats over the coming weeks - I normally remove the scuff and then sand the remaining glue away but I have been thinking of trying some white spirit this time - whos used this? I can see from this thread people that have used it say it doesnt effect the wood in anyway but i guess just want a bit more reassurence before i use it lol and how long do you leave it before giving it a light sand before applying oil/wax?
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I have just started to sand back a 2004ish Kookaburra Belta (simply doing it because I love the profile)
I am having a hard time getting of the tan lines from where the old stickers were, any suggestions?
I'm afraid live with it is the best option, a bat that old you'd need to sand it half to death.
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I'm afraid live with it is the best option, a bat that old you'd need to sand it half to death.
yes I have found this while doing my brothers Warsop Bat from 2004. I have contacted Warsop and they are sending me some older stickers to cover them. Which was very kind.
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Hi all,
I am planning on doing referbing my bats over the coming weeks - I normally remove the scuff and then sand the remaining glue away but I have been thinking of trying some white spirit this time - whos used this? I can see from this thread people that have used it say it doesnt effect the wood in anyway but i guess just want a bit more reassurence before i use it lol and how long do you leave it before giving it a light sand before applying oil/wax?
Yeah white spirit is fine to use, crack on!
Once I've used it to remove the residue I sand within minutes. It evaporates so quickly you can see it happening so you'll know the willow is dry again.
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3. You are likely to have glue residue left. There are a number of ways of removing this. You can use white spirit on a clean cloth to rub the glue off, use a Stanley knife blade held at 90 degrees to the face of the bat to scrape it off, or use an electric sander to sand it off, although this does clog the sandpaper.
4. Sand down the entire bat, using increasingly finer grades of sandpaper to get the perfect finish, and if required, apply a layer of wax and buff to a finish.
I have a different approach to these two steps that works well. After removing the scuff sheet, I apply a generous coat of linseed oil on top of glue. After about 10 to 15 mins, the oil soaks the glue and it is not sticky any more. I then take an old rag and wipe the bat vigorously. It does the trick for me. This also leaves a very thin layer of oil on the bat, which I leave it as it is for a couple of days and then go for the next scuff sheet.
The clear advantage I see is that I am not introducing any new materials (spirit or other chemicals) to the bat and neither am I taking off any wood by sanding it down. Works for me.
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I use linseed oil to remove the glue too. I leave it a while then scrape off the residue with a scraper. Works a treat.
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To avoid starting a new topic, have started refurbing one of my old bats to kill time in Lockdown 3.0.
I've sanded it back and applied a coat of oil, how long would be sensible to wait before applying a new scuff and new stickers? I usually oil after scuff and stickers to avoid having to worry about it but the area under the old scuff and stickers was extremely dry.
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As long as possible.
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As long as possible.
Couple of weeks? Couple of months? I'm open to leaving it a good long while but some idea on an upper limit would be helpful :D
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Yes as James said leave it as long as you can. Depending on how much you put on would depend how long it will take to dry
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In my experience, the Shortest period of time is a few days, but then I would give the bat a light rubdown before putting the sheet on. These days I usually tidy up my bats at the end of the season and put a scuff sheet on just before winter nets.
Haven’t bothered this year as I didn’t play much last year and couldn’t be bothered.
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Thanks mate.
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To avoid starting a new topic, have started refurbing one of my old bats to kill time in Lockdown 3.0.
I've sanded it back and applied a coat of oil, how long would be sensible to wait before applying a new scuff and new stickers? I usually oil after scuff and stickers to avoid having to worry about it but the area under the old scuff and stickers was extremely dry.
Also depends on which type of sheet. If you want to apply a fibre sheet, no amount of time is long enough ;) They always tend to slowly form an odd bubble as the sheet un-stretches. Best would be to wait as long as possible, and then do a very light sand (especially around the edges of the bat, so the sheet can grip onto the sanded edges).
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Cheers @brokenbat I'll give that a crack when it's had long enough for the oil to, hopefully, set in properly.
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If you sand, make sure you get all the sanding residue properly wiped off the blade, otherwise scuff won't stick well!