Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Topic started by: EaglesCC on August 11, 2013, 10:38:21 AM
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Generally the opinion seems to be that over dried willow is a bad thing. From what I understand, the reason for over drying willow is to make it lighter in weight for its size. Down sides being the lack of moisture means willow will be brittle and won't last long...
Now I completely agree that expensive over dried bats are not worth the money as when you buy what is marketed as a high end bat you expect it to last. But what about cheap over dried bats? Are they worth considering if they rebound well but the chances are they won't last more than a season?
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Make no mistake they do not last as long but they go just as well
There no different between low density and over dried there much of a same thing
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Interesting subject.
I too thought the same, about the over dried expensive bats been, a waste of money due to the possibility of them needing replacement after a season or less.
But then looked and saw laver and wood offer this option on there high end bats.
Surely a maker as experienced and highly regarded as laver wouldn't offer this if they did not think it was a sound investment?
They really don't wanna sell a 100 bats that'll last only a few months and have there reputation tarnish because. Would they?
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What's the story with GM F2 bats how are they getting the size with feather light pick up,over dried??
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What's the story with GM F2 bats how are they getting the size with feather light pick up,over dried??
Lots of concaving.
Plus the f2 face makes them seem bigger than they are.
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Make no mistake they do not last as long but they go just as well
There no different between low density and over dried there much of a same thing
There is a huge difference! As an example, Each cleft is cut to the same dimensions and dried to the same moisture content. Take a selection of clefts from a batch and they will be different weights because of how they are made up. It's to do with the DNA of the cleft. A low density cleft is just that, low density and not overdried. Clefts with every last drop if moisture taken from them are standard clefts which have just been dried further. I believe the ideal moisture content of a cleft is around 9-12%. Over drying will probably take this down to 6-8 at a guess.
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Ca bats are over-dried right ?
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I've had CA bats last years and years so I don't think you can generalise. But batsmen want big light bats these days so understandable that even main stream manufacturers would cut corners to meet these demands.
I suspect most wouldn't admit to selling over dried willow but where could I buy some at a reasonable price?
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There is a huge difference! As an example, Each cleft is cut to the same dimensions and dried to the same moisture content. Take a selection of clefts from a batch and they will be different weights because of how they are made up. It's to do with the DNA of the cleft. A low density cleft is just that, low density and not overdried. Clefts with every last drop if moisture taken from them are standard clefts which have just been dried further. I believe the ideal moisture content of a cleft is around 9-12%. Over drying will probably take this down to 6-8 at a guess.
Sorry mate but your thinking is old there new techniques to bring willow down to a moisture content now which can be brought down evenly as possible akin to low density.
90 per cent of what people think are low density are actually over dried.
And they are very similar you get the same result a big bat for a lesser weight both are as brittle as the other too hence the reluctance to sell the average punter one.
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Sorry mate but your thinking is old there new techniques to bring willow down to a moisture content now which can be brought down evenly as possible akin to low density.
90 per cent of what people think are low density are actually over dried.
And they are very similar you get the same result a big bat for a lesser weight both are as brittle as the other too hence the reluctance to sell the average punter one.
Could be right there, if you think of it, down to a cellular level, there must be something (Or lack of) in a low density cleft, perhaps larger pockets of air, or perhaps a looser structure of cells. Someone who specialises in biology could probably answer this, but whatever it is, it does mean that you get some compromise in durability in lower density clefts. Not sure how much it affects the bat itself, but I would imagine over-drying has a more detrimental effect to the longevity of the willow as I would have thought the moisture is what helps keep the structure of the cells intact, but I could be so wrong! Where's a biologist when you need one?! :-[ It does mean though that you need another 1271 B3 for a net bat Dave, Crown willow is expensive and probably not massively durable! ;)
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Based on the mass of willow being made up of two things, the moisture content, and the fibrous content, one would assume that a low density cleft would have a similar moisture content, but a lower fibre content, than a regular cleft. If this is the case, would the reduction in fibre content, affect the durability? The only other possible answer is that naturally low density clefts are low in moisture, which would mean that they were no different to overdried clefts.
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Looking from cheap willow point of view, cheap overdried willow bats which perform well offer a great value. I would say a bat which scores a lot higher runs per inning and costs less is a great value for money (as I look to buy a bat to score runs ;) )
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Before Steve was on the forum I had an MSR it was massive and super light but best of all it pinged like higher end bats.
In the end I realised it was a laminate (extended edge type) when I removed the stickers and the bat broke shortly after giving it to someone. So cheap, possibly over dried but scored lots of runs. Was slightly not more the fact it was playing well then the financial loss... Would have another like that.
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Before Steve was on the forum I had an MSR it was massive and super light but best of all it pinged like higher end bats.
In the end I realised it was a laminate (extended edge type) when I removed the stickers and the bat broke shortly after giving it to someone. So cheap, possibly over dried but scored lots of runs. Was slightly not more the fact it was playing well then the financial loss... Would have another like that.
Have you seen how many bats he has in his storage at the moment?! Give him a ring and see if he get you something special again like that. (Without the laminated edges that is!) ;)
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A reply from laver that I asked last July.
Hi Rob,
Many thanks for the email response.
The number is the weight of the cleft in grams and they are all a very
similar shape. As you can tell the natural weights of the clefts vary a
significant amount!
The secondary drying can work in many different ways. Sometimes over 4ozs
are lost and sometimes nothing is lost at all and the process simply creates
a drier, harder outer surface. This 'crust' can sometimes increase
performance hugely and can be more beneficial than a larger bat... I would
say that 2ozs is probably the average weight lost by the secondary drying
process so a 2lbs 8ozs bat would be the size of an average 2lbs 10ozs bat.
The process will not really work on a bat that has already been made
unfortunately - especially if it has been oiled. It may lose some weight
immediately but it is likely to return to the original weight pretty
quickly.
Kind regards, Andy
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Wednesday, 25 July 2012 9:22 a.m.
To: Laver & Wood
Subject: RE: Some Cleft pics please
Hi Andy
Thanks for the pics. I take it the no.s on the clefts are what they weigh
now? Are they all at the same shape at the moment?
Another question, how much weight does the secondary drying lose on average?
And can this be done on a bat already made?
Thanks
Rob
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After all the tests I have done with some bats can confirm it is true west does return but not to all bats it doesn't
I work a ratio of 2 ounce off 1 return but it depends if you blast it quickly or not.
I find that drying a made bat out takes time and more skill than I thought.
Where talking crust theory again love it, make no mistake though for weight loss there is a massive trade off and I have a theory behind over dried bats because I have done it a few times and the theory continues with low density as well.
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You don't half talk in riddles buddy!
What is an 'at home' way of drying willow? I feel some experimenting with cheap bats coming on...
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Well there 2 ways but I don't want people to spoil there bats.
Because longevity is effected massively you don't tend to get surface cracks you tend to get downward long cracks.
The method is quite simple but for the sake of impressionable young and old people I advice not to do it the benefits do not outweigh the positives
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It's political correctness gone mad to think that one should refrain from posting an idea for fear that someone will take it as gospel/ the wrong way/ will blame someone else for loss or damage/ etc, etc...
If you're genuinely concerned you can PM me but I'm sure others will be interested too.
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Whack it spine down on top of a radiator would seem the simplest way I'd have though,m or an airing cupboard.
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I've always wondered what benefit does a lower density bat brings? Just because it has more volume per weight does it mean it would perform better? Or is it the fact that it is stiffer that brings the performance?
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Or is it the fact that it is stiffer that brings the performance?
:o
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haha i guess that was sarcastic :p it still confuses me because apparently softer pressed bats perform better - and they definitely are not as stiff as a well pressed bat...
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A stiffer crust will provide better performance as long as the supple underneath
Radiator mate is the quick solution take all scuff sheets off give it a light sand and turn evenly whilst keeping the splice of the radiator
A tricky yet quick solution yet half the weight returns
The airing cupboard is the best way if there is a best way to go once again remove scuff light sand all over bat.
We are really getting into the realms of the over crazy here and please remember if you had quick drying glue it might weaken your splice.
There ways of turning as well but the results are variable and it could ruin your bat
I do not advise this to any key I currently use low density crown willow
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A stiffer crust will provide better performance as long as the supple underneath
Radiator mate is the quick solution take all scuff sheets off give it a light sand and turn evenly whilst keeping the splice of the radiator
A tricky yet quick solution yet half the weight returns
The airing cupboard is the best way if there is a best way to go once again remove scuff light sand all over bat.
We are really getting into the realms of the over crazy here and please remember if you had quick drying glue it might weaken your splice.
There ways of turning as well but the results are variable and it could ruin your bat
I do not advise this to any key I currently use low density crown willow
I've done the radiator one, but only to one of the cheaper bats I've bought. (Dropped it from 2.10-2.8) Like Dave says, wouldn't recommend doing it unless you are certain you want your bat lighter and to perform better but over a short period in time!
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Would be an interesting experiment if someone measured the moisture content of some large bat companies (and maybe the smaller custom ones) bats.
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Pretty sure that's been done before. Typically the result was what you expect.