Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Making => Topic started by: brokenbat on March 18, 2014, 07:10:20 PM
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I need to add some concaving to a bat to recreate the spine (I had basically reduced the spine using a drawknife, and am left with a "flat" shape"). What can I use? I have heard of these No.4 and No.5 travishers but can't seem to find anything reasonably priced. Would this be a good substitute: http://www.amazon.com/Kunz-German-Convex-Spokeshave/dp/B00076Q9SO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395168689&sr=8-2&keywords=convex+spokeshave (http://www.amazon.com/Kunz-German-Convex-Spokeshave/dp/B00076Q9SO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395168689&sr=8-2&keywords=convex+spokeshave) ?
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With bat making tools does the age old saying of "you buy cheap, you buy twice" not matter?
I found these when looking
http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/shop/ray_iles_travisher.html (http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/shop/ray_iles_travisher.html)
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These are excellent value for money.
http://www.tomthackray.co.uk/shop/ (http://www.tomthackray.co.uk/shop/)
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ok so the convex spokeshave is no good?
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ok so the convex spokeshave is no good?
I haven't used that kind before so not sure, I find the wooden type better.
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Have a hunt on Ebay for round bottom planes, something like this might give you more control.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-no-16-moulding-plane-by-W-Sarjent-/151229955100?pt=UK_Collectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item233601fc1c (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-no-16-moulding-plane-by-W-Sarjent-/151229955100?pt=UK_Collectable_ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item233601fc1c)
Largest size is generally a No.18 but larger ones do pop up.
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Keep your eyes open for heel shaves. They're leather working tools but slice through willow! ( scroll down on this link and you'll see a bunch of them: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?90710-Carvel-Plank-Planing (http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?90710-Carvel-Plank-Planing))
I got a travisher but I'm not convinced the body is right as I never managed to get any purchase on the wood I think this is because they are traditionally supposed to be used across, rather than along the grain.
Your other option is to convert a wooden plane (there's an example on the same link) which is great for rapid removal of stock. You can pick up old coffin plans for a fiver if you're lucky and the old steel is amazing.
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looked around a bit, and this seems ideal, no? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNELL-ATHERTON-spoke-shave-draw-knife-leather-tool-concave-sole-OED-5-nice-pc-/221299875363?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNELL-ATHERTON-spoke-shave-draw-knife-leather-tool-concave-sole-OED-5-nice-pc-/221299875363?_trksid=p2054897.l4275)
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I use both a travisher and a round bottom plane. Travisher for the removal of most of the wood and then the round bottom plane for fine tuning. couldnt live without my travishers. Ive got a very shallow one and a more pronounced on.
the snell atherton is good. pretty much a travisher just a metal version.
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thanks. I think its more fine tuning in my case. would this be the equivalent of a round bottom plane: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane (http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane)
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thanks. I think its more fine tuning in my case. would this be the equivalent of a round bottom plane: [url]http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane[/url])
No, although you do need one of those for doing shoulders. They're not much good for concaving
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thanks. I think its more fine tuning in my case. would this be the equivalent of a round bottom plane: [url]http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-580-1050-Bottom-Spokeshave/dp/B000JRDLWS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395237912&sr=1-2&keywords=round+bottom+plane[/url])
can you post a picture of what the bat is like and what you need to do. unless the bat was concaved before and had reasonable concaving towards the toe it should be easy to re shape the spine without the use of a travisher etc
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yes will try. seem to be doing something wrong. keep getting an "Cannot access attachments upload path!" error.
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can you post a picture of what the bat is like and what you need to do. unless the bat was concaved before and had reasonable concaving towards the toe it should be easy to re shape the spine without the use of a travisher etc
here is the pic.
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p354/dasenahk/IMG_20140319_170929_zps294284fe.jpg)
as you can see, the spine runs down to the point where I chopped off a bit. And that part is now a triangular shape. I would like to change that triangular shape, and recreate the spine there.
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I'm assuming that the triangle section is the toe of the bat?
You could use a drawknife/ Travisher/ round bottom plane ( moulding plane) to re-shape.
Where are you based? I'd drop im to your local pod shaver or forum sponsor to finish it off. It'll be cheaper and guarantee the shape and check the balance.
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I'm assuming that the triangle section is the toe of the bat?
You could use a drawknife/ Travisher/ round bottom plane ( moulding plane) to re-shape.
Where are you based? I'd drop im to your local pod shaver or forum sponsor to finish it off. It'll be cheaper and guarantee the shape and check the balance.
In the US. And doing it myself is part of the fun mate :)
Yes, the triangle is towards the toe, but the toe area itself is flat (like in the Clarke bat design), so the spine is NOT extended all the way down. I got this far using a drawknife.
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I would just blend it in as is, lookslike you'd have to take out a fair bit to recreate the spine there.
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Just buy that Snell & Atherton No. 5 if you can mate. I've got the same tool and its probably the thing I use most for shaping concaved bats. I think it'll take about one minute!
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Sponge drum sander that you can attach to a drill. Quick, easy and cheap. Used that on the bat I made.
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
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Just buy that Snell & Atherton No. 5 if you can mate. I've got the same tool and its probably the thing I use most for shaping concaved bats. I think it'll take about one minute!
yep, on it. will be delivered to me on Monday. any tips on how to keep the spine straight? I was thinking of drawing a line with a marker. and carefully removing wood with the Snell&Atherton No. 5, either side of that line. And then use sandpaper to make any final tweaks. sound good?
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I like to use a soft pencil to mark the areas I want to work on (and just as importantly NOT work on!). Mark the centre line/spine with your pencil and shape with the shave as close as you're comfortable with. Because there is not very much wood at the top of the spine, I have found that good quality sandpaper gets you where you want to be as you're more likely to take off too much with your shave and spoil the profile. Get your P120 sand paper on it to smooth out the imperfections. Take your time and keep looking down the spine of the bat. If you think the spine is kicking too far one way then just rub the line back into shape until it's straight. I've just started using foam backed sandpaper made by Festool which is great for this. After that it's between coats sandpaper up to P320 to finish before a little Briwax or whatever you want for finishing. To be honest the P320 is finer than the willow so if you're careful with your sanding this will be fine.
Hope that makes sense. I don't have a any photos of this stage of finishing. Here's a photo of my marking out though.
(http://i1282.photobucket.com/albums/a537/Phesmar/IMG_0184_zpsf0049e25.jpg) (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/Phesmar/media/IMG_0184_zpsf0049e25.jpg.html)