Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Topic started by: procricket on April 12, 2014, 04:20:54 PM
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Just finished today knocking in my new cricket bat and for the first time it has quite wide grain and started lets say a tad unresponsive yet after a few net sessions and around 10 hours of knocking in I have to say it is up there with all my bats and I'm very happy with it.
I really do like how it has sprang to life And I like wide grain currently this one has 6 I is very defined what do people prefer if they could have whatever they wanted.
Main bat sorted
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I would always choose something in the region of 8 to 10 very straight grains on a bat.
I've always thought bats with lots and lots of grains look a bit odd for some reason.
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I quite like a bat with 6-9 prominent grains, I'm on knocking in an Affinity Spectre which has 7 grains and it's a gun
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The more the merrier.
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Whatever
I just say give me bat that goes I don't mind on grains although 3 of my 4 have 16 plus grains my match bat has 10
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Wheat and rye grains, triple distilled, Stolly vodka. 1 piece of ice a small squeeze of lime
On a bat, my Pro H4l has 12, evenly spaced and looks great. Any more could be a tad crowded.
(hic)
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Usually go for between 6 & 11 but the number of grains isn't a deal maker or breaker for me
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I have got a few bats which have ten plus grains that all play really well but I have found a wide grain ss that plays superbly and can't tell the difference between wide grain and narrow as both seem to play as well when given time but just for looks I like nice tight straight grains :D
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Best bat I ever had and I'm pretty sure will never find one even close had 8 or maybe 9. I found an ugly looking bat with 17 grains that feels nice so I'm going with that. Grains don't make me hit the ball so I'm not that bothered but wouldn't particularly like a bat with 4 or 5 grains.
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Im not really fussed I guess 8+. My CA was purchased purely because I needed a bat ASAP (thanks Chad) and this year's BAS was bought on pickup and size, grains was never a consideration.
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30 straight. All sapwood. Pressed like silk sheets.
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Whilst there is no science between wide or narrow grained bats performing better than each other in the long term my question is for personal preference.
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I would say straight evenly spaced is more important to me than the number.
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I would say straight evenly spaced is more important to me than the number.
Is that more of a preference or is there something to the bats with evenly spaced grains? Just for my knowledge.
My ideal preference is 8-12 grains.
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IDEALLY 10 TO 14 STRAIGHT EVENLY SPACED GRAINS TO ME.
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Is that more of a preference or is there something to the bats with evenly spaced grains? Just for my knowledge.
My ideal preference is 8-12 grains.
That's your brain telling you it is better there is no science to say it is better.
The power of our minds.
I guess it is a bit like the Initial response of a bat how many. Times have you tapped one up said yes baby got it home done it again and it like a different bat... Room acoustics I call it.
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(http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/ncfcrgr8/20140322_120522.jpg) (http://s931.photobucket.com/user/ncfcrgr8/media/20140322_120522.jpg.html)
I don't have any preference over grains and doesn't make a purchase for me but my 707 on the right is my favourite looking bat. Love how defined the grains are.
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Ideally 12 for me, must admit how the grains look do play quite a big part for me when choosing a bat. Anything from 8-14 is good for me, i try and get them evenly spaced and straight through the toe.
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So what makes a good bat really what is it please don't say the pressing, yes pressing important but what is it really.
What makes a bat a gun......
Yes we know being able to use it is most important but a bat what makes it great better than most.
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So what makes a good bat really what is it please don't say the pressing yes pressing is in portent but what is it really.
What makes a bat a gun......
Yes we know being able to use it is most important but a bat what makes it great better than most.
Looks 20%, feel of the bat(balance) 40%, about a thousand other factors 20% and pressing 20%
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People band the term pressing but what is pressing what the desired effect of pressing??
Really want a proper old school custom bats forum debate going
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So what makes a good bat really what is it please don't say the pressing, yes pressing important but what is it really.
What makes a bat a gun......
Yes we know being able to use it is most important but a bat what makes it great better than most.
Performance with ball and pick up 90%, looks and AOB 10%.
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People band the term pressing but what is pressing what the desired effect of pressing??
Really want a proper old school custom bats forum debate going
Compressed so that it lasts while retaining optimum rebound.
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Good to have a proper nerd bat topic come on people of the forum more bats get passed through people hands than anything what makes a bat great and what is pressing what the desired effect and why.
Funny we left these topic and talk about faf du plessis shoelaces lets get back to the real topics or maybe I'm just old
Softly pressed/hard pressed come on people there so many say there bats are the best why are they the best.
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Grains? Nah not too bothered, whatever really
I've got bats with loads of grains, 16 or 17, and bats with 7 or 8 grains, I suppose the ones with more grains feel slightly softer,tap up nicely straight away, but my Affinity Spectre has 7 grains and ball response off it is unreal, ,first bat I've had that makes a genuine 'crack' noise when I hit the ball
My Jedi bat with 17 grains feels softer, and to me doesn't have the same response, but still an amazing bat
I think it's down to the individual piece of willow,,,it's a natural product
What a bat maker does with that piece of willow is hopefully tailor it to your game and needs
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What are the needs you talk about mate???
So your saying softer is better???
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I think only the bat makers will have the knowledge on the actual effects that pressing has on a bat. I feel there are a few sectets about pressing and different pressing techniques that pod shavers are reluctant to discuss openly. I have never pressed or made a bat so have limited knowlege but belive the pressing has a far bigger part to play on how good a bat is. I think the average club cricketer doesnt think about how the bats been pressed when purchasing a bat.
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No they don't but this forum is of was not your average place it full of people who want to know more.
But as bat users nice to know what people actually think what makes there bat better than the last or the best bat they ever had.
Alvaro Steve has a great answer but people talk about hand picking it would be good to hear what they say when they pick a bat out of say 10 what makes it better to them.
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([url]http://i931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/ncfcrgr8/20140322_120522.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s931.photobucket.com/user/ncfcrgr8/media/20140322_120522.jpg.html[/url])
I don't have any preference over grains and doesn't make a purchase for me but my 707 on the right is my favourite looking bat. Love how defined the grains are.
And that bat flys!!!
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Softly pressed,,,no, I don't see the point to it
You just end up knocking it in anyway, as the fibres still have to be compressed, the ball response of the bat is not as good
The softness absorbs the ball impact a bit, ,bit like playing with an older ball
My needs?
Excellent pick up, ,a middle just off the toe lasting upto the splice, thinnish short oval handle,no concaving,
And to be really honest, ,I'm not really gonna know if a bats ok,until I've used it in a game, on a grass wicket
No matter how many bats I look at, and tap up etc
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Ok what would people say if I told you there a natural middle on a cricket bat and it isn't where the most meat on a bat is as some think.
Agree about the soft pressed load of tosh mate
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Yup agree totally
Would you say the middle varies in response?
I'm not saying with extra meat behind it
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I think most people know where they like their middle ie low, mid or high so i suppose it comes down to the mallet/ball test for rebound and how dense the wood is because a lot of people these days want a biggest bat which still feels light enough to cut and pull with.
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Of course some bits of wood are potentially better than others no matter what pressing is done by there very degrees it a natural product.
All swings and roundabouts is the swing speed to size of meat behind the power zone
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Yeah, low middle or high, not convinced about all that?
My mates recently purchased bat had at least 7 inch of serious middle on it, ball response off it was unreal
A decent piece of willow is a decent piece of willow
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I think batmakers should press the life out of the bottom inch of a bat so it's like concrete to stop it splitting
I think maybe the fact that on a machine a bat is pressed quickly and with so much force that you get a better bat if it's softer and made firm enough for use in match by by a round mallet, the pressing isn't as deep.
I also think a lot of people don't knock their bats in long or hard enough. I see people with new bats and 99% aren't fully knocked in. When I tell them they say yes it is. I go to my bag, get out my round mallet, hit it with 75% force and sure enough there is a dint in the face. Most are astonished as they spent hours using a flat mallet. Start with the flat until you are blasting it full pelt, then go 50% with the round mallet and work up the strength.
Completely my own thoughts so I could be talking rubbish again.
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The bat 2nd from the right, a middle from just under the sticker to 1 inch above the toe. It's 75mm spine and lighter than a 2.8 I have. It's 2.10 but the balance is amazing.
The key to this bat is the handle, it feels like it was just made for my hands. I think the handle is not considered enough by people when buying a bat.
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I agree totally on the handle, ,very important to pick up, and also shot playing
I think the whole extra grip to stop a dominant bottom hand thing is stupid
I'm sure others may disagree on that tho
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(http://i60.tinypic.com/f5bsc5.jpg)
here you go mate..
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Handle is very important until recently i removed the bind off the top half of the handle till i was shown a more scientific measure and it felt better to me agree John.
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I bet not many people on here can state the dimensions of their preferred handle. If you ask the top batsmen in the world they will all be able to tell you.
For me 12cm circumference top hand and 13cm bottom and I plonk on a thin grip and a gm shock absorba to get a nice thick spongy feel to the bottom hand. I have been told the top hand on my bat is not round but very slightly oval !?!?
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Cheers for posting the pic
The bat has edges of only 20mm .... It's smashed now but I'll bring to a net so you can have a feel of it Dave
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I bet not many people on here can state the dimensions of their preferred handle. If you ask the top batsmen in the world they will all be able to tell you.
For me 12cm circumference top hand and 13cm bottom and I plonk on a thin grip and a gm shock absorba to get a nice thick spongy feel to the bottom hand. I have been told the top hand on my bat is not round but very slightly oval !?!?
I'm not convinced I know what mine even feels like in my hands yet, let alone the dimensions :-[
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I don't like Gray Nics handles. I loved the handle on my GT335 but I think that is was close to breaking from the get go. Whippy as whatever it was - probably hit the ball the furthest with it though. Similar effect on other Newberys that have come from Asad (two, lol). A mate's Mjolnir was also beautiful. He weighs about six stone when drenched and could even hit the odd six with that bat.
When that GT finally went, the replacement was a twig and had changed the bat completely. Time to move on.
Unlike Cover_Drive, I am a fan of the Salix/Hits Hard handle. Thick enough for one grip and just oval enough.
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What about springiness in a handle? Flex?
Do you reckon this has an effect on performance that a layman could detect?
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I think your right Alvaro in saying some if not most handles are thin .... It's the only part you actually touch on a bat so it needs to be right or it would be like trying to drive a car sitting on plastic beer garden chair
Are bat makers using thin handles to reduce weight and make a bigger bat at the expense of better balance?
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I bet not many people on here can state the dimensions of their preferred handle. If you ask the top batsmen in the world they will all be able to tell you.
For me 12cm circumference top hand and 13cm bottom and I plonk on a thin grip and a gm shock absorba to get a nice thick spongy feel to the bottom hand. I have been told the top hand on my bat is not round but very slightly oval !?!?
As you know i have seen a few and your right to a mm they know some of them that i have seen mate.
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I think your right Alvaro in saying some if not most handles are thin .... It's the only part you actually touch on a bat so it needs to be right or it would be like trying to drive a car sitting on plastic beer garden chair
Are bat makers using thin handles to reduce weight and make a bigger bat at the expense of better balance?
That is a double edged sword though John if you take weight from the top of the blade including the handle and away from the hands your making the pick up worst but as clefts tend to be getting heavier not lighter i suspect some are trying to get the weights down of there bats .
Yes just re read your post agree mate.
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I think your right Alvaro in saying some if not most handles are thin .... It's the only part you actually touch on a bat so it needs to be right or it would be like trying to drive a car sitting on plastic beer garden chair
Are bat makers using thin handles to reduce weight and make a bigger bat at the expense of better balance?
I think that accusation could be levelled at Gunn and Moore last year. the Argons and Octanes were massive bits of wood but the handles were very thin. The ones i've picked up this have been better. So, yes, possibly. My Laver has a thin handle that Ben at Salix was not impressed with - he said much the same as you Garrett. The width of bats is another prevalent trick to keep weight down, apparently.
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Thin handle bats always feel heavy to me even if they are 2.8.
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I think that accusation could be levelled at Gunn and Moore last year. the Argons and Octanes were massive bits of wood but the handles were very thin. The ones i've picked up this have been better. So, yes, possibly. My Laver has a thin handle that Ben at Salix was not impressed with - he said much the same as you Garrett. The width of bats is another prevalent trick to keep weight down, apparently.
Yes it is Steve also removing Toe guards and putting thin chevron grips and there are other ways yet you cant blame people to try and get bats out there at weights people want.
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Not an accusation, just an observation. :)
The best trick is making people think a shorter, thinner blade and longer handle will help you moose it out the park...
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So all the people out there onely a few can say what makes there bat great??
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Choice of grains 6+. What makes a great bat for me is something I am happy to use for every net / game and every time I walk in the garage I have to pick it up and play some shadow shots or tap up a ball
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What makes a bat great, you said not to say it but it's the user?
Put a 606 in micheal clarkes hands he'll score runs.
Put the lightest, biggest cleft going that's greatly pressed in a non cricketer, and he'll be lucky to get ten.
But in seriousness and onto actual bats. Big edges, small edges, concaving, non concaving, scoops, high middle design, oversized clefts, low density clefts big toes. Blah blah blah, all they do is give a placebo effect.
As long as the bat is knocked in, in your weight range, and picks up well in your opinion, that's all that matters.
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Personally I'd pick on performance not looks, I don't really care if it's an ugly duckling as long as it's been pressed well I'm happy. I've learned for making quite a few bats that looks isn't everything. It's more of a guide when buyijg blind online but doesn't guarantee a good bat.
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I've had a variety of bats over the years including Ishan, Multiple GNs (Fusion, Megadrive andUltimate) two Bradmans ( one wad a ridgeback that lasted two seasons and snapped), fisher, Newbery and now mongoose.
I currently have a two year old Fisher Custom with 7-8 grains, a 15 year old GN Ultimate 1000 Players with 8 grains and a Players Bin Newbery Uzi SPS with 12-13 Grains that a 'mate who knows the bat maker' picked up for me about 8 years ago.
I always thought grains were important until I joined this forum and read as much as I could. I used to look for between 8-9 when I hand selected my own bats. In the case of my last 4 bats including the Newbery, that choice was outside of my control so there was variation.
The Newbery way great, but seemed to dry out faster than any bat I have owned. I'm trying to resurrect it after a shonky rehandle at the moment, but the ping has gone. I'm thinking that more grains equals less moisture and it dries out faster here in Adelaide, Australia where we have a very dry climate. Bob Fielke restrung it over Christmas and said it was very dry and it should give it 4 oils.
My ugly fisher is way better than the Newbery ever was and I know it was not over-pressed because I failed to knock in the toe an had a minor crack when I used it against a bowling machine. Glued and clamped it I fixed it and had a great season.
The GN Ultimate was a fantastic bat and I got 4-5 seasons out of it before I moved on. 8 grains.
Currently I am knocking in. Mongoose TORQ Series with wavy wide 6 grains. I brought of eBay and it felt dry and hard when it arrived. I was worried. So I have given it two oils left it for a week or so, then light sand and facing.
The most important thing I tried after watching Paul's 'it's just cricket video' on YouTube was that my mallet was was in the light category. So I brought a heavy one as he recommended and gaffer taped a little lead flashing on to it to make it a bit heavier again. 3-4 hours of knocking in on the goose and it's starting to feel amazing and ping like a gun.
So in summary.
1. Batmaker's skill at pressing is more important than grains, but if you don't knock it in properly you won't get the best rebound.
2. Weight of the bat and pickup. For me it was around 2.8-2.10.
3. 6-12 grains is ok.
4. Look
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My preference is 12 plus wide prominent ruler straight evenly spaced grains.
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Clearly there is no single correct answer on this one. I think the bat makers themselves, or those that have dabbled in the art, are the most qualified to answer.
Ideally, like a bat with 6-9 grains but that is only really because all my past bats had 6-9 grains. I like round handles but that was only because I had owned Asian made bats and then took a while to adjust to using an oval handle. One thing is for certain, I like a bat that picks up at about 2.8.
As for why a few of my bats are great, I really don't know why my Salix players and Lavers ping so well, but I am reliably told it has something to do with the way they are pressed. All I can do is take a bat, bounce a good quality ball off it and judge from there. Or, buy from a bat maker on reputation. I must say, I'm not all that fussed on the aesthetics of a bat but the more I spend, the nicer looking I expect it to be.
This is the reason I buy so many bats...looking for what works for me and developing my knowledge and appreciation of the willow.
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Here's why I think grains don't matter, and neither does shape really.
I bought a part made cleft that had been pressed by an expert. I shaped it into a bat that I could use.
The bat has 4 grains. It is the first time I had tried to shape a bat.
The ball flies off it. Most people don't like the handle shape, but they love using it due to its rebound qualities.
Either I'm the luckiest man on the planet when it comes to batmaking and have enormous latent skill or the guy who pressed it did a Stirling job.
Much as I'd like it to be the first, I'm certain it's the latter...
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