Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Making => Topic started by: brokenbat on November 17, 2014, 02:05:42 PM
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i need to reduce the toe of a bat by a few mm - whats the best approach? sand it down from the back or just a drawknife and do it quickly?
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If it's just a couple of mm, a spokeshave would be better. Maybe not as quick as a drawknife, but a lot more difficult to take out large chunks with a spokeshave
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Spokeshave?
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If it's just a couple of mm, a spokeshave would be better. Maybe not as quick as a drawknife, but a lot more difficult to take out large chunks with a spokeshave
yeah i guess that would be safer... the drawknife i have is a straight one (not the curved kind), which i think should be reasonably safe, but spokeshave probably best bet
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Having used curved and straight drawknifves, I much prefer the straight blade. A spokeshave properly sharpened and adjusted spokeshave will make short work of the area and should be smooth enough to sand at 240grit straight away.
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thanks a lot
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I reduced a whole spine using 80grit paper and a handheld sanding machine so if you only want to take a small amount off you may as well save the money and use that method (assuming you don't already have bat making tools)
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I reduced a whole spine using 80grit paper and a handheld sanding machine so if you only want to take a small amount off you may as well save the money and use that method (assuming you don't already have bat making tools)
If you're going to use that method, a dust-mask of some description is a must!
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I reduced a whole spine using 80grit paper and a handheld sanding machine so if you only want to take a small amount off you may as well save the money and use that method (assuming you don't already have bat making tools)
excuse the silly question, but how did you do that without "flattening" the spine? if you sand the spine, don't you effectively kill it?
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Depends on the shape of the sander and how you do it. An round random-orbital sander held at the right angle sands concaving quite nicely, but it ruins the disc if you are too heavy. The same can be said with the triangular detail sanders.
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excuse the silly question, but how did you do that without "flattening" the spine? if you sand the spine, don't you effectively kill it?
Not a silly question at all bud, I probably didn't explain myself very well.
I kept moving the sander so I've got a rounded spine rather than a flat one, difficult to explain.
Will get some pictures of the bat as it is now when I get in from work.
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Depends on the shape of the sander and how you do it. An round random-orbital sander held at the right angle sands concaving quite nicely, but it ruins the disc if you are too heavy. The same can be said with the triangular detail sanders.
just to make sure we're on the same page.. you're referring to something like this? http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1 (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1)
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just to make sure we're on the same page.. you're referring to something like this? [url]http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1[/url])
Was more similar to this one mate
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001K31KOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416237871&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001K31KOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416237871&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40)
The one you put a link to would be a better investment though, I used what I found in the shed haha
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Use a sander follow the shape of the toe start whithout 40 grit and for smooth finish end with 280.
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just to make sure we're on the same page.. you're referring to something like this? [url]http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D26451-5-Inch-Random-Orbit-Sander/dp/B0009WRKUM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416237685&sr=1-1[/url])
That's what i was referring to. Square bottom sanders are a pain to get in the concaving properly. If you have an old hoover you don't mind recking, it may fit in the dust port, making life easier regarding dust collection. I find the dust bags don't do a great job (mainly because the dust is finer than the material!)
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Use a sander follow the shape of the toe start whithout 40 grit and for smooth finish end with 280.
Starting at 40 is too low a grit. You'll lose all the detail and shape and the scratches it leaves behind are not easy to remove. Better off starting at 100/120 and taking longer. I certainly wouldn't go lower than 80.
One thing I've noticed from woodturning, the sharper your tools are, the smoother the finish meaning you can sand with a higher grit straight from the tool. The same applies with bat making if you are going to shave the wood off rather than sand it off.
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Starting at 40 is too low a grit. You'll lose all the detail and shape and the scratches it leaves behind are not easy to remove. Better off starting at 100/120 and taking longer. I certainly wouldn't go lower than 80.
One thing I've noticed from woodturning, the sharper your tools are, the smoother the finish meaning you can sand with a higher grit straight from the tool. The same applies with bat making if you are going to shave the wood off rather than sand it off.
Not necessarily depends on the pressure used and the shape of the toe.
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I'd still steer clear of it. Currently I use an inflatable drum sander and sand 120, 240 and 320 on it. Quick rub down with 400 and then you're ready to go. Don't generally start below 120 on any bats. Occasionally will use 100, but very rarely