Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: azim91 on February 25, 2016, 09:01:54 PM
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Guys, I know this may sound like a stupid question, but is there a specific bat wax or raw linseed oil that can maintain or reduce the browness the wood gets after oiling/waxing? or is it inevitable that the bat will become a brown colour?
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How about the Salix bat wax ? It keeps the moisture content of the bat in tact and provide a nice shiny finish.
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I've found that wax changes the colour less drastically than oil, but some colour change is always going to happen
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Do you have to oil and wax ??
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Bat wax can be considered tantamount to one coat of oil plus nice finish ...
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so salix bat wax then?
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Put a scuff sheet on it. That will keep it white on the face.
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so salix bat wax then?
I guess so .. this is what i see in IJC site ..
http://www.itsjustcricket.co.uk/cricket-accessories-c24/bat-care-c30/salix-bat-wax-p446 (http://www.itsjustcricket.co.uk/cricket-accessories-c24/bat-care-c30/salix-bat-wax-p446)
Quick drying - Salix Bat Wax can be buffed for use straight away, or can be left for a couple of hours to let the wax soak in to the wood before buffing to a shine.
Makes the cricket bat blade appear shiny rather than oily.
Acts like furniture or shoe polish.
Available in 2 sizes of smart (and recyclable) aluminum tins - 15ml and 60ml.
The small (15ml) size is ideal for one cricket bat, while the large (60ml) is best for multiple bats or to last over several seasons.
Salix Bat Wax has been especially formulated for Salix cricket bats, but can be used on any cricket bat as a new alternative to linseed oil.
Salix Bat Wax acts like an oil by nourishing the willow, like a protective wax by sealing the grain, and like a polish as it buffs up after application to make the blade shiny rather than oily.
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15ml for one bat or 60ml for "multiple" (4?) bats
They should do a CBF version where it comes in a barrel... :D
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Put a scuff sheet on it. That will keep it white on the face.
I've heard people say that you still have to oil even if there is a scuff sheet present (remove it and then apply a new one) or if you want to apply one.
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I've heard people say that you still have to oil even if there is a scuff sheet present (remove it and then apply a new one) or if you want to apply one.
Scuff sheet only covers the face so all the other parts of the bats will have exposed wood. Idea behind oiling or waxing is so seal moisture in and not let the bat gain more moisture so if you put a sheet on it will keep the face white but you still need to oil/wax other areas
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You can leave the sheet on, just oil around it
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Paul Aldred is selling bat wax as well, I've got some and can say it spreads very easily and you don't need a lot to cover a large area. He explains in the video bellow how he finds other brands wax too hard.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbzHFt3Kh3c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbzHFt3Kh3c)
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I have a trick to maintain the whiteness.
Don't oil or wax, merely replace after 2 months.
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I've heard people say that you still have to oil even if there is a scuff sheet present (remove it and then apply a new one) or if you want to apply one.
Scuff sheets do essentially do the same by sealing moisture into the bat.
They need replacing each year, and it doesn't hurt to apply a coat of oil when the old one comes off, but you'd get to keep the white look for an extra season
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I have a trick to maintain the whiteness.
Don't oil or wax, merely replace after 2 months.
tell that to my bank balance
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I reckon I'll add a coat of bat wax... if its too dark I could sand it lightly, but this Warbird is just too nice looking for the colour to change!
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I have a theory that the more a bat is exposed to the sun the more it will change colour especially if it has been oiled. So do what I do and bat for as little time as possible ;) and keep a cover on them when not in use.
Maybe a scientist on here can confirm whether that is likely - chemical reaction?
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I reckon I'll add a coat of bat wax... if its too dark I could sand it lightly, but this Warbird is just too nice looking for the colour to change!
I think that the new look or the oiled look are equally as attractive as each other.
Wilma had one light coat of oil all over before I applied a scuff sheet, and still looks very white.
Norman was prepared by Chad, I don't know how many coats of what were applied before the scuff sheet, but there is a more "aged" look to the willow.
I think both look brilliant though.
(http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb450/CPye061194/IMG-20160216-WA0026_zpsjjc8l1jk.jpeg)
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The face of my H4L had a tape on it so didnt bother to remove it and oil. I used salix bat wax on the rest of the exposed area. Looks white from front and back is not too bad.
But practically, once you start using it the face doesnt look white after few games/nets anyways :) unless you clean the face after every use ;)
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Aldred bat wax better than the readers stuff ??
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Aldred bat wax better than the readers stuff ??
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You cant stop spending ;)
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You cant stop spending ;)
Only few £ buddy
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Only few £ buddy
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Yep i know haha ive still yet to get any extra i need
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I actually make it a point to oil ASAP to change the color from white to that beautiful "oiled" brown. I think that is how a cricket bat is supposed to look.
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There's also a different theory on whether to oil the back as well or just the face + edges. Really don't understand why there isn't just a simple rule and why people have theories.
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Who made the thread of thw experimenting with oil and wax surely that would help here? @uknsaunders @walkingwicket37
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There is a simple rule, oil the exposed areas and avoid the splice. If you have a scuff sheet already fitted, then you obviously don't need to oil the face. Simples. :) If you're going to attach a scuff sheet, but the willow feels very dry, give it a light sanding with fine sandpaper, and then brush off sandings before scuffing. If you're really wanting you, you can oil prior to scuffing, however you'll have to wait at least 4 days for the oil to soak in completely/evaporate to a point where it doesn't prevent the scuff sheet from sticking.
A tip would be to apply one very light coat of oil and round the edges, then scuff up a few days later and knock it in. Rounding the edges earlier will help reduce the chance of the scuff sheet wrinkling as you don't need to round them with the scuff on. :) You don't have to oil to round the edges, I just oil sometimes before rounding the edges if the bat is flat faced, to help prevent cracks.
If you don't scuff, then 2-4 coats of oil on the face, edges and toe, waiting around 48 hours between each coat. (The number is entirely up to you) One thing you may have to do is actually sand the bat first, as some batmakers will use a polishing compound which prevents oil from penetrating the surface of the bat. Most of them use a compound which does allow oil to seep in, but not all from memory! 1-2 coats on the back of the bat.
I think that the new look or the oiled look are equally as attractive as each other.
Wilma had one light coat of oil all over before I applied a scuff sheet, and still looks very white.
Norman was prepared by Chad, I don't know how many coats of what were applied before the scuff sheet, but there is a more "aged" look to the willow.
I think both look brilliant though.
([url]http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb450/CPye061194/IMG-20160216-WA0026_zpsjjc8l1jk.jpeg[/url])
Hi Cam, my own special brew of oil was applied twice I believe. Takes a lot of lovin' to concoct the special brew. :D (Just kidding, 2 coats of linseed oil from memory)
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There's also a different theory on whether to oil the back as well or just the face + edges. Really don't understand why there isn't just a simple rule and why people have theories.
No real difference of opinion on that.. Oil/wax and scuff sheets serve to prevent the moisture in the bat from leaving. So wherever the bat is NOT covered by stickers, sheets, tape etc..is where you apply the oil/wax. I always oil the back, cuz I love that golden brown color.
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I did make my own bat-wax using white beeswax, its only has a touch of yellow in the bat
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I use this stuff, loads cheaper than stuff branded as "BAT WAX" and is essentially the same stuff! They sell it in Morrisons and Wilko etc. It is nice and light in colour. It brings out the beauty of the wood.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lord-Sheraton-Wood-Balsam-75ml/dp/B000TAOS6I (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lord-Sheraton-Wood-Balsam-75ml/dp/B000TAOS6I)
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Not sure of the turpentine in there. Maybe some of the members more familiar will be bale to answer.
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I believe a combination of chalk and wax is used to keep it white looking
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Not the best to work with health and safety wise keep my bats white using household toilet bleach wearing a mask gloves and goggles I use soft cloth and apply the bleach in small quantities following the grains of the willow and vigorously rub it in.
Wipe clean with a dry cloth and allow the blade to try naturally
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Not sure of the turpentine in there. Maybe some of the members more familiar will be bale to answer.
I am very familiar with it!!! :D
The turpentine is only there to help keep it nice and soft/spreadable. When wax goes hard its next to useless! The turpentine evaporates as soon as you start rubbing/polishing it with a cloth.
It really is amazing stuff loads better than Linseed Oil or Bat Wax. Smells great as its going on too.
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I've used it too. Goes on very easily. Polishes up well and gives a shinier finish than Salix bat wax. (Which is also very good.) Smells s bit terpy, thats all.
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I've used it too. Goes on very easily. Polishes up well and gives a shinier finish than Salix bat wax. (Which is also very good.) Smells s bit terpy, thats all.
I quite like the smell, its a bit turpy/beeswaxy :D