Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: LBWCandidate on May 31, 2017, 09:43:03 PM
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Hey guys,
Minor cracks on new SG bat after some throw downs. Remind me never to give my bat to someone who thinks throw down is an actual match.
How would you go about fixing this?
I am thinking wood glue, keep it clamped for 24 hrs or so and then some fiberglass tape. Maybe a toe guard?
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mandeeptoor1/20170531_163015_zpspk86xweq.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/mandeeptoor1/media/20170531_163015_zpspk86xweq.jpg.html)
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(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mandeeptoor1/20170531_163106_zpstfdoniu4.jpg) (http://s61.photobucket.com/user/mandeeptoor1/media/20170531_163106_zpstfdoniu4.jpg.html)
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Hey guys,
Minor cracks on new SG bat after some throw downs. Remind me never to give my bat to someone who thinks throw down is an actual match.
How would you go about fixing this?
I am thinking wood glue, keep it clamped for 24 hrs or so and then some fiberglass tape. Maybe a toe guard?
You never give your new bat to anyone. Period. Regardless, new bats are vulnerable in the toe area and do require quite a bit of preparation.
Inject Wood glue in the bat crack with a syringe and then clamp the toe for 48 hours.
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Were they hitting the ball or just whacking the floor?
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Has it been used in the wet, looks a bit like the sort of splits bats tend to get after being wet then drying.
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It was on astroturf nothing wet about it. It's easier to find someone who will bat when doing throwdowns then throw the balls.
Toe was knocked more than an hr.
I dislike the bat preparation part, never sure when you are fully done and ready for the next step.
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Were you playing golf with it? :o
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After a repair on a bat like this, I would stick a layer of Shoe Goo along the toe. Acts as a toe guard and ensures no water goes directly into the toe.
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Hey guys,
Minor cracks on new SG bat after some throw downs. Remind me never to give my bat to someone who thinks throw down is an actual match.
How would you go about fixing this?
I am thinking wood glue, keep it clamped for 24 hrs or so and then some fiberglass tape. Maybe a toe guard?
([url]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mandeeptoor1/20170531_163015_zpspk86xweq.jpg[/url]) ([url]http://s61.photobucket.com/user/mandeeptoor1/media/20170531_163015_zpspk86xweq.jpg.html[/url])
When I first saw this it reminded me of the Bagette I had for lunch
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After a repair on a bat like this, I would stick a layer of Shoe Goo along the toe. Acts as a toe guard and ensures no water goes directly into the toe.
Sounds good! Will do that.
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Think you should buy a new Bat!
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Think you should buy a new Bat!
This is one of the new bats. :(
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This is one of the new bats. :(
... WAS on of the new bats . :D
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- Took the scuff sheet and edge tape off
- Cleaned and sanded
- Glued and clamped
Next Steps
- Apply shoe goo
- Oil and knock more (Not much around the toe)
- Apply fiberglass around the toe and edges
(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mandeeptoor1/20170603_204455_zpsx6594n0v.jpg)
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(http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mandeeptoor1/20170603_204429_zpsnitmftgt.jpg)
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what type of glue did you use?
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I would not be surprised if that opens up again, it doesn't look like you got a tight enough binding/clamping.
Good first try though.
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what type of glue did you use?
Gorilla Wood Glue.
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I would not be surprised if that opens up again, it doesn't look like you got a tight enough binding/clamping.
Good first try though.
Thanks. I did wrap up with plastic like Julians video shows and then clamped it tight for more than 24 hrs. Still, it doesn't look that tight.
Maybe needs longer/tighter clamping and then fiberglass tape.
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Thanks. I did wrap up with plastic like Julians video shows and then clamped it tight for more than 24 hrs. Still, it doesn't look that tight.
Maybe needs longer/tighter clamping and then fiberglass tape.
The Toe is quite hard to do, you need some off cuts of wood and place on the back, so when its clamped its like a square block and not at an angle on the back (due to the shape of the toe, its never square or rectangle). Hope that makes sense.
I use wooden doorstops and bits of wood.
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I wouldn't recommend gorilla glue. It requires the surfaces to be damp to cure, it expands as it cures (this may explain the issues you had clamping it) and it sets too hard and may cause further cracking.
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I wouldn't recommend gorilla glue. It requires the surfaces to be damp to cure, it expands as it cures (this may explain the issues you had clamping it) and it sets too hard and may cause further cracking.
That's only the normal gorilla glue that does that, the wood glue they do acts in the same way as any other wood glue in the application and setting properties, and is excellent too
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That's only the normal gorilla glue that does that, the wood glue they do acts in the same way as any other wood glue in the application and setting properties, and is excellent too
cheers. Didn't know that. I have always used PVA.
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cheers. Didn't know that. I have always used PVA.
Thats whats gorrilla wood glue is, except it costs more than unbranded PVA.
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PVA generally refers to white wood glue, where as gorilla wood glue uses natural wood resins leading to it drying a yellow/orange colour the same as titebond wood glued, I think they may be called PCA instead of PVA because of this if I remember correctly, both work exactly the same really, apart from gorilla glue I've found dries a little better in deep cracks where as PVA can sometimes take a few days to dry if its deep in the bat like for serious delamination
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PVA generally refers to white wood glue, where as gorilla wood glue uses natural wood resins leading to it drying a yellow/orange colour the same as titebond wood glued, I think they may be called PCA instead of PVA because of this if I remember correctly, both work exactly the same really, apart from gorilla glue I've found dries a little better in deep cracks where as PVA can sometimes take a few days to dry if its deep in the bat like for serious delamination
My experience is just the colour difference, but open to being told otherwise, its still bloody expensive by comparison though lol.
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Polyeurathane glues expand as they cure and require moisture to cure. PVA glues do not expand and cure by evaporation. I believe they have similar strength properties though. I guess it depends what you personally prefer.
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My experience is just the colour difference, but open to being told otherwise, its still bloody expensive by comparison though lol.
Yeah it is,
Think gorilla was little 200ml for £5 and I got my big bottle of 5 litres for £15 😂
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Based on reviews online and other places, I picked Gorilla wood glue.
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Gorilla wood glue is just PVA, not sure if it has any benefits over cheap brand PVA's or if you just pay for the name.
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Paid around $3;18 for 8oz, not much I think.
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Wood-Glue-8-oz/dp/B001E4E3KY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496682727&sr=8-3&keywords=pva+gorilla+glue (https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Wood-Glue-8-oz/dp/B001E4E3KY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496682727&sr=8-3&keywords=pva+gorilla+glue)
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The Toe is quite hard to do, you need some off cuts of wood and place on the back, so when its clamped its like a square block and not at an angle on the back (due to the shape of the toe, its never square or rectangle). Hope that makes sense.
I use wooden doorstops and bits of wood.
Wooden doorstops... genius , so simple . Having not thought of this myself i now feel rather daft ;).
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Thanks. I did wrap up with plastic like Julians video shows and then clamped it tight for more than 24 hrs. Still, it doesn't look that tight.
Maybe needs longer/tighter clamping and then fiberglass tape.
@mandeeptoor a shoulder crack I am fixing....
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4283/34320006824_0d9c78d0fc_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4233/35165011335_107ce33b0e_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4283/34320006424_7d50db0388_c.jpg)
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Now I get it. :)
Earlier I was trying to picture it in my head.