Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: Sloggerz on May 22, 2020, 08:00:12 PM
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Currently sanding down an old bat. I can not seem to find any circular orbital sheets above 240 grit. Any recommendations? (UK based).
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Pardon my ignorance, but could you just cut some normal stuff to the size and shape you need?
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Pardon my ignorance, but could you just cut some normal stuff to the size and shape you need?
No, for orbital sanders it has to be hook and loop fitting
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Currently sanding down an old bat. I can not seem to find any circular orbital sheets above 240 grit. Any recommendations? (UK based).
Amazon mate, I got 400-2000 grit from there
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Can you post a link please?
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Yep Amazon. Also... don't worry about it, sanding past 240 on a refurb is a bit of a waste of time.
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Can you post a link please?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sanding-Silicon-Carbide-Wear-Resistant-Sander/dp/B07VD3GHXB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=400+grit+sanding+discs&qid=1590185124&sprefix=400+grit&sr=8-4 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sanding-Silicon-Carbide-Wear-Resistant-Sander/dp/B07VD3GHXB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=400+grit+sanding+discs&qid=1590185124&sprefix=400+grit&sr=8-4)
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Thanks. So how fine do you go with the sanding process?
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Yep Amazon. Also... don't worry about it, sanding past 240 on a refurb is a bit of a waste of time.
Yeah, why do a decent job when you can do a half hearted one!
I'd personally go to at least 400 on a refurb, otherwise it just looks lazy when you give the bat back. Just my opinion though, if you think 240 is acceptable carry on
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Also on the subject of what grade to sand to, when I visited Hunts Tony said they only sand their new bats to 320 grit.
If you go back over various reviews of Hunts (and Hunts made) bats there are a lot of comments about the rustic finish, or people giving the bat a quick hand sand to sort it out a bit. That's a grade finer than 240 and people didn't seem content with it.
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If it looks no good after 240 then you're the one guilty of a half-hearted job!
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If it looks no good after 240 then you're the one guilty of a half-hearted job!
Really? What happened to not getting personal?
I've never seen a bat with a truly good finish at 240, regardless of whose done the job.
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If it looks no good after 240 then you're the one guilty of a half-hearted job!
Maybe we just have different standards. Having seen your opinions on polishing bats it's clear you're not a fan of attention to detail.
Would I use one of my own bats that had only been sanded to 240? Yes
Would I give a bat back to someone who'd paid me for a refurb having only bothered sanding it to 240? Not a chance!
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Finish on 240?
I’ve found you only really begin to see the grains etc when you get above 240
Now this is horses for courses, and obviously it takes a certain amount of attention to detail, and dare I say it skill, in finishing any piece of wood to reveal its natural beauty, and some may argue as to the point,,,,but then I’m sure a lot will also argue as to how nice a well finished bat looks.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m as guilty as anyone in mis using my match bats, they are truly shocking after a seasons use, and I can see the ,what’s the point argument,,,,,but what I and many others don’t do, is tell people on a forum, that every bat refurbed or made, has to be finished a certain way or to a certain standard.
There’s no need for anyone to have a go, however subtle, or not so subtle, at guys that ENJOY finishing a bat to as high a standard as their skills and experience allow.
Is their any chance we draw a line under this now?
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And please forgive my ignorance in not replying to the original post,,,,
I get my discs from eBay,,,there’s a guy on there does selections of grades, boxed
Usually around a tenner delivered,(and quickly) for 100 discs
I think alldew or something is his user name
Highly recommend them,,,it usually pops up when you search 125mm sanding discs
You can pick whatever selection you want
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And please forgive my ignorance in not replying to the original post,,,,
I get my discs from eBay,,,there’s a guy on there does selections of grades, boxed
Usually around a tenner delivered,(and quickly) for 100 discs
I think alldew or something is his user name
Highly recommend them,,,it usually pops up when you search 125mm sanding discs
You can pick whatever selection you want
Just had a look are they blue in colour?
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Sanding-Discs-Sandpaper-5-KLINGSPOR-8-Hole-Pads-40-600-GRIT/263031168097?hash=item3d3de11c61:m:mn2I4d67cdVP9CWa3wSSxMA (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Sanding-Discs-Sandpaper-5-KLINGSPOR-8-Hole-Pads-40-600-GRIT/263031168097?hash=item3d3de11c61:m:mn2I4d67cdVP9CWa3wSSxMA)
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6H8YXWZ/7-BDB9-E70-D85-E-4-AF7-BD2-B-1-F96-D7-D2-C3-A0.jpg)
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Maybe we just have different standards. Having seen your opinions on polishing bats it's clear you're not a fan of attention to detail.
Ha! Come on Cam, how fine sandpaper you use isn't about attention to detail. I wouldn't get away with not having that in my line of work. My point is simply that you there's no need to go higher than 240, particularly on a refurb. Others do agree, Laver if you want an example. You're welcome to just disagree rather than taking shots at me!
Polishing bats is a separate thing, I get it but I'm not a fan personally - high polished bats look great and all but my preference is for a more natural finish.
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Really? What happened to not getting personal?
I've never seen a bat with a truly good finish at 240, regardless of whose done the job.
Perhaps didn't come across in text but only cheekily throwing Cam's own words back, certainly not intended as 'personal'.
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I bought some of these last week as I've put off sorting all the club mates bats for long enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Wet-and-Dry-Sanding-Discs-5-Sandpaper-8-Hole-Film-Pads-40-3000-GRIT/264026942850?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563583618989&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Wet-and-Dry-Sanding-Discs-5-Sandpaper-8-Hole-Film-Pads-40-3000-GRIT/264026942850?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563583618989&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
you can pick what grit combo you want through them all in terms of ranges.
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Thanks guys that was really helpful. Whats the highest grit have you guys used to get that really smooth finish?
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Thanks guys that was really helpful. Whats the highest grit have you guys used to get that really smooth finish?
400 gives you a pretty good finish. If you want it absolutely gleaming you'll need higher.
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I bought some of these last week as I've put off sorting all the club mates bats for long enough.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Wet-and-Dry-Sanding-Discs-5-Sandpaper-8-Hole-Film-Pads-40-3000-GRIT/264026942850?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563583618989&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125mm-Wet-and-Dry-Sanding-Discs-5-Sandpaper-8-Hole-Film-Pads-40-3000-GRIT/264026942850?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=563583618989&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
you can pick what grit combo you want through them all in terms of ranges.
These are a good buy but in my former life I would have always used a silicone carbide paper for the finest finishing. How can I turn this into a vitriolic post to match the tone of this thread. What has this forum come to!
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Thanks @Gurujames worth knowing as sanding if far from my area of expertise. Will bear that in mind for when I stock up next time.
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Klingspor are good quality discs.
A good quality sand paper and a good sanding process are what you need. If you do it right you don’t need to go into the 1000 grit which some do. I seem to recall that someone with some knowledge and experience once said anything past 600 and you can’t really see the difference in most woods.
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Managed to sand the bat down and pretty pleased for a first attempt at sanding.
Any suggestions for the toe?
(https://i.postimg.cc/nzjY1GWP/15909657215614959218241945078243.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Wood glue, push it into the cracks with something thin and flexible, wrap it all tightly in parcel tape, leave it overnight, lightly sand off the excess glue the next day.
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Would gorilla glue or super glue not work as the cracks are thin
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Would gorilla glue or super glue not work as the cracks are thin
Generally, superglue is a bit brittle and useless for toe feathering. It creates a sandwich type bond (wood is the bread and superglue the filling) and there is no knitting into the fibres.
It's good for sealing really minor edge cracks.
Gorilla glue I don't have any experience with, but from what I heard it foams up which would suggest it isn't as strong as PVA would be.
PVA or wood glue basically creates a mesh and knits into the wood fibres which is why it creates such a strong bond.
My suggestion would be get a needle and syringe (you can buy them cheap online) water down some PVA so it's really thin, and then inject it into the crack.
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Personally used Gorilla Wood glue for my refurbs for the last couple of years and not had one break yet. It’s been used too repair a substantial crack through the tow and back of the bat on my GM neon and that’s held upon for over 12 months.
Got loads into the cracks, watered some done for the slightly smaller cracks and toe feathering and then clamped sides and on top. Left for 24 hours and sanded afterwards. Found it 10x better than any off the shelf wood glue i had used from B&Q etc before i found Gorilla glue
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Gorilla glue make a bunch of different products don't they? Gonna vary wildly depending on what you've bought. Original Gorilla is an expanding glue by the looks of it which would be pretty bad news for a toe crack, but their wood glue is just standard PVA-based stuff.
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As Edge says the original Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane glue which foams and expands once applied.
It's a bit too thick to get into toe cracks like that and it actually reacts to water so you can't thin it down.
For the cracks pictured I'd either inject them with some PVA, or just flood it with liquid superglue and leave it to dry overnight.
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This is the one i have got.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DzsTxTPT/15910073089702628523070924631979.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Whats the best ratio for water to glue to get it the right consistency to get into the crack or is it something to estimate?
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This is the one i have got.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DzsTxTPT/15910073089702628523070924631979.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Whats the best ratio for water to glue to get it the right consistency to get into the crack or is it something to estimate?
To me that looks like a super glue (probably gel superglue as the info online refers to a longer working time) rather than a pva type glue. I'd not advise mixing water and any type of super glue.
Small toe feathering like the image posted previously just needs a quick squirt of very viscous superglue and then clamp it tight, or alternatively dribble pva down into the cracks as best you can with the help of gravity (water it down if you like although i've never been a fan of this, more water = less glue and therefore less bond strength) and then clamp it closed.
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Personally used Gorilla Wood glue for my refurbs for the last couple of years and not had one break yet. It’s been used too repair a substantial crack through the tow and back of the bat on my GM neon and that’s held upon for over 12 months.
Got loads into the cracks, watered some done for the slightly smaller cracks and toe feathering and then clamped sides and on top. Left for 24 hours and sanded afterwards. Found it 10x better than any off the shelf wood glue i had used from B&Q etc before i found Gorilla glue
Gorilla glue is different to gorilla wood glue, I use the wood glue myself. It's great. The foaming polyurethane stuff isn't good at all for cricket bats as everyone has said. @SOULMAN1012
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This is the one i have got.
(https://i.postimg.cc/DzsTxTPT/15910073089702628523070924631979.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Whats the best ratio for water to glue to get it the right consistency to get into the crack or is it something to estimate?
That's the stuff that expands, don't shove that in the toe.
If you have to resort to watering down PVA, the less water the better so add it little by little until you've got the glue thin enough - doesn't take much to get it very runny. I'd only water it down as a last resort personally but others seem to get decent results doing it so whichever you feel comfortable with.
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This is the wood glue I use -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008ESKPKA/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Bqo1EbY2G7FRC (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008ESKPKA/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Bqo1EbY2G7FRC)
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Thanks for the heads up about glue edge. Just got hold of some PVA wood glue and will try to water it down. Just need to get hold of a needle and syringe now.
Out of interest what settings and sanding pattern is recommended when sanding. I was just making it up as i went along. My orbital sander goes from 1-6 . Is it best to go slow on a slow setting along the grain then speed up or circular pattern?
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Slow with rougher paper faster with finer paper. Always sand in the direction of the Grain. Only exception is with a random orbit sander.
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Slow with rougher paper faster with finer paper. Always sand in the direction of the Grain. Only exception is with a random orbit sander.
Thanks will give that a go next time i am sanding bats