Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Bat Care => Topic started by: iand123 on April 16, 2015, 07:25:19 AM
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Have been cleaning up a few bats of late and really trying to improve the finish. Can anyone offer some tips on buffing the bat (tools, products) for a complete novice (and idiot) :)
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If you oil, leave it overnight to harden before buffing, same with wax. You can get something called white diamond buffing compound, but only use it on a clean buffing wheel.
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Thanks for the advice. With regards to buffing wheels, any advice of which one to get or avoid?
Do you use the diamond buffing compound as a substitute to wax/oil?
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TBH, I prefer the finish from wax and oil, but that's just personal preference.
Buffing wheel wise, I use a loose wheel for wax/oil and a soft stitched wheel for the compound (mainly because that's what's reccomended for woodturning applicaions! I use the motor on my lathe, so I can set the variable speed to about 1500 RPM. Any faster and the finish doesn't get into the wood.
The buffing compnd is ever so slightly abrasive, equivalent to, I think about 1200 grit, so gives a nice sheen. You don't need a lot (made that mistake first time i used it!), just hold the bar up to the buffing wheel as it spins for a couple of seconds, to coat the whole face of the wheel and gentle pressure of bat onto wheel. Too heavy and you stop the wheel.
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Ian if its any help i brought a soft stitched buffing wheel that's fits into an hand drill 3/8Th chuck from Tool Station for £ 2.60p.
Last week works a treat bringing out the shine once the bat as been oiled.
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Thanks, should have said i'll be using a drill (i have the drill). @Seniorplayer any chance you can link me to something?
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If it has any kind of speed function, the lowest setting is usually fast enough. Otherwise it'll be too fast...
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Thanks, should have said i'll be using a drill (i have the drill). @Seniorplayer any chance you can link me to something?
Just spotted your post
In the on line Tool Station Catalogue Double stitched Buffing wheel Code 38981
You will need a tapered drill spindle.
Also Loose Leaf Buffing Wheel for final polishing 100 0/0 cotton comes with 1/4 shaft fitted to wheel for hand drill chuck £2.55p
Code 51172.
Alan
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Was hoping to come into the topic and read a viewers guide to ogling Sarah-Michelle Gellar....alas its not the case
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You don't need a tapered drill spindle. That's only if you're using a pillar drill or lathe. Should be able to find something with a straight shank that the drill chuck jaws will be able to grab.
http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/finishes/finishes-1/chestnut-finishing-products/chestnut-buffing-wheel-kit (http://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/finishes/finishes-1/chestnut-finishing-products/chestnut-buffing-wheel-kit)
I use a similar set up to this system for buffing the bowls I make, fits into the jacobs chuck (drill chuck) which goes in the morse taper on my lathe. It should fit straight into a normal electric drill.
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If ian buys the buffing wheel code 98381 from tool station he will need a spindle for the drill as the double stitched buffing wheel from Tool Station does not come with one.
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If it has any kind of speed function, the lowest setting is usually fast enough. Otherwise it'll be too fast...
It does have a variable speed function but thanks for letting me know
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Was hoping to come into the topic and read a viewers guide to ogling Sarah-Michelle Gellar....alas its not the case
Showing your age there Thomas!
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If ian buys the buffing wheel code 98381 from tool station he will need a spindle for the drill as the double stitched buffing wheel from Tool Station does not come with one.
I've found it online, far from being my area of expertise basically are you saying something to fit the buffing wheel into so that it fits into the drill?
EDIT
or would this kit be everything i could need? http://www.toolstation.com/m/part.html?p=58727 (http://www.toolstation.com/m/part.html?p=58727)
FURTHER EDIT
Or this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9pc-Silverline-Polishing-Kit-Dome-Goblet-Cylinder-Mop-Buffing-Wheel-Compound-/311257454880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item487863d920 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9pc-Silverline-Polishing-Kit-Dome-Goblet-Cylinder-Mop-Buffing-Wheel-Compound-/311257454880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item487863d920)
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Those mops will do if you use compound. Don;t use anyhting other than white compound though. I tried the brown before white, like you do when buffing other woods, but the brown stains the willow, well, brown!
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Would they also be suitable for buffing oil/wax? That feels like a stupid question so sorry for asking if it is!
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The stitched mops would work, but loose is better, especially in a concaved profile as it moulds to the shape better
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Ok thanks, i'll order these then. Best place for white compound (fancy trying both approaches)
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I'm still using the bar that came with my mops! Maybe try ebay. Search white or white diamond buffing compound
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Is this the same stuff? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Metal-Polishing-Buffing-Cleaning-Compound-500g-/390089320559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5ad322a86f (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Metal-Polishing-Buffing-Cleaning-Compound-500g-/390089320559?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5ad322a86f). It says its for metal....
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should do the trick.
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Would they also be suitable for buffing oil/wax? That feels like a stupid question so sorry for asking if it is!
No stupid questions on here Ian yes I have used them for both.
Alan.
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I personally would use anything with any 'cut' in as they call it. If you do the sanding stage properly then it should polish up nicely. Most polishing compounds with cut or abrasive in are designed for metals not woods like willow. You also want to look out for something that seals the wood rather than just makes it look pretty and shiny as it will soon start to absorb or loose moisture depending on where it is, particularly if you don't oil it as part of the process.
Speed wise slow is better. Mines around 1400rpm I think. As long as you don't put too much pressure and allow heat to build up you should be ok.
Tbh if the sanding is done properly you can get the wood to look great by hand polishing. Takes some time but can look good. Preparation is the key with most things
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Thanks guys.
Just picked up the buffing wheels and put them into the drill. Getting quite a few cotton threads coming off. Is that normal? is it just a cheap wheel? Am I going too fast?
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That's what should happen its trial and error at first but practice makes perfect what you can do though is reduce the amount of pressure on the willow and if possible use the drill at a slower speed also do as John (red ink ) as suggested and avoid polishing compounds as they will remove the oil or wax from your bat and as John as said moisture will then be lost rather than sealed into the willow.