Custom Bats Cricket Forum
Equipment => Bats => Topic started by: Chalkie on December 23, 2016, 11:35:28 PM
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So with all these big bats around and the focus on edge size, what would you say are the minimum specs for toe and shoulders to allow the most wood to be concentrated in the middle without compromising the strength in these areas?
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To answer your question, take a look at what Kranzbuhler has done with GN big bats. Without compromising performance for any condition, he has created some pretty amazing bats: Big Warner, XP-70/80, 50 Plus.
One of our forumites has reviewed 50 Plus and Xp-80 on Youtube. He also measures the bats dimensions in the video. That should help answer your question.
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Thanks mate, but from what I have read the Kranzbuhler bats still have fairly big toes and shoulders as the willow is so light.
I'm interested in what people think is the minimum with a standard piece of willow, to then allow the weight to be put in the middle. For example my red ink x2 has a 20mm toe and 14 shoulder (at the edge), which allowed me a 44mm edge, but I think that the toe could be a couple of mm lower, not sure on the shoulder.
I know it's not an exact thing as the shape from the toe up can be massively different, but does anyone have specs lower than this and if so has the bat survived ok, or was it vulnerable to toe damage?
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I wouldn't want to go too much lower on either as it can leave it a little vulnerable. Been working on a similar shape with larger edges towards the 50mm from a standard cleft to see what's feasible. There are a few things you can do get another half an oz or so out without dropping below those points, just depends if you are happy with minor tweaks in length and toe shape
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Thanks John, loving my custom x2, just wondering how much further we can push that shape and sounds like you have been playing with the dimensions as well.
Think we went with rounded toe on mine, so if can't make toe much thinner, then as you say the next step would be shorted blade and longer handle.
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30 mm toe and 25 mm shoulders with 45 mm edge and 68 mm spine in a very high middle with obviously zero concaving.
That would be the minimum I would want in 2 lbs 7 oz bat in grade 3 Kashmir willow at less than £100 delivered.
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I may have reserved a 50+ from a very reputable straight talking Aussie retailer who is very fortunately a forum member. When it arrives I will provide a reviee
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I may have reserved a 50+ from a very reputable straight talking Aussie retailer who is very fortunately a forum member. When it arrives I will provide a reviee
And then what?
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I may have reserved a 50+ from a very reputable straight talking Aussie retailer who is very fortunately a forum member. When it arrives I will provide a reviee
looking forward to it mate (ignore the troll).
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for me it's determine on the amount of willow your waiving about, I am assuming that 44mm edge/20mm toe/14mm shoulder would be about the max. and depending on fullness would weigh around 2.9.5.
Certainly could lose a bit more of the shoulder but would also need to reduce the edge.
To be honest I was looking at the XP70/80 but I was not convince about the strength of the shoulders for the amount of mass below.
I guess time will see but I would expect to see a few XP70/80 with shoulder cracks in the short furture.
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To be honest I was looking at the XP70/80 but I was not convince about the strength of the shoulders for the amount of mass below.
I guess time will see but I would expect to see a few XP70/80 with shoulder cracks in the short furture.
That is an interesting POV. The Warner replica has a shorter and similarly thin handle but more mass in the bat (minimum weight is 2-13). You can get an XP-80 for 2-10 or 2-11. If shoulder durability is a concern, I suspect XP range would fare better. Again, it is purely conjecture on my part as I have not held an XP in my hands. I have a Warner replica with a second grip on it, the handle size is perfect for me and bat picks incredibly well. XP would be a dream.
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To answer your question, take a look at what Kranzbuhler has done with GN big bats. Without compromising performance for any condition, he has created some pretty amazing bats: Big Warner, XP-70/80, 50 Plus.
One of our forumites has reviewed 50 Plus and Xp-80 on Youtube. He also measures the bats dimensions in the video. That should help answer your question.
I reviewed both. I would not like a toe under 20 mm as John said. Lots of bats are splitting near the shoulders with narrow shoulders. You can go full Excalibur and drop them. Traditional round toes is another saving. Hang on I'm pretty much describing a Blank Bat B20.
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Lots of bats are splitting near the shoulders with narrow shoulders.
Have you seen any XP go there yet? or a you talking about the F18s .do you remember what was the edge size at the shoulder on the xp? I didn't take any measurements but just thought the proportions looked wrong to me.
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Thanks for the comments guys.
Looks like the Typhon goes down to 17mm on the toe edge, but thicker where the spine runs in.
http://custombats.co.uk/cbforum/index.php?topic=36362.0 (http://custombats.co.uk/cbforum/index.php?topic=36362.0)
Not sure about the shoulder, maybe @procricket or @Doctor could comment?
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More than dimensions it's also the pressing. I have seen "tiny" specs in some old GM and Salix bats, but they were pressed well and a lot less fragile than some of the softer pressed modern day bats.
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More than dimensions it's also the pressing. I have seen "tiny" specs in some old GM and Salix bats, but they were pressed well and a lot less fragile than some of the softer pressed modern day bats.
"Lot less fragile"? How do you mean?
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"Lot less fragile"? How do you mean?
I meant a lot less fragile than one may think. Have copped a few brutal inside edges on the thin toe of my old flare and it has had no impact. But nobody would buy a bat like that now (round face, round toe, Hard pressed)..
Square toes that are softer pressed (like a lot of today's bats) are easier to damage...which is why you probably need the bigger specs.
Nothing good or bad..just making the point that specs alone won't give you the full picture.
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I reviewed both. I would not like a toe under 20 mm as John said. Lots of bats are splitting near the shoulders with narrow shoulders. You can go full Excalibur and drop them. Traditional round toes is another saving. Hang on I'm pretty much describing a Blank Bat B20.
What do you think of XP-80 on low/slow pitches and driving from low/mid-low position? Is the toe alarmingly thin on XP-80?
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Have you seen any XP go there yet? or a you talking about the F18s .do you remember what was the edge size at the shoulder on the xp? I didn't take any measurements but just thought the proportions looked wrong to me.
I am generalising about bats with those features. F18s I have seen, but I think the twisting and vibrations test bats with these specifications. I've personally switched to thicker shoulders 16 mm minimum, as it helps lighten the pickup having a more mass there and balance out a thicker swell down low.
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What do you think of XP-80 on low/slow pitches and driving from low/mid-low position? Is the toe alarmingly thin on XP-80?
This was one of the videos I did on the XP80.
https://youtu.be/4l8U7yrzylI
I would suggest a older shape like the Laver Jules would work better.
https://youtu.be/lmnWJOWlbnU
Really the XP70/80 are designed for true bounce and pace where you are playing on the up or cutting and pulling. If I was on lower deck that hold up I would either try and play front foot...but I'm a amateur. Traditional or subcontinent shapes probably suit those conditions better.
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Have you done a kaboom replica review @sarg ?
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Have you done a kaboom replica review @sarg ?
Nope. On then bucket list. Unless players want to share, im not financial enough to buy every bat. I can only imagine that loke any of the Kransbueller bats it is well made and will perform. The SSH doee not really appeal to me personally.
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Nope. On then bucket list. Unless players want to share, im not financial enough to buy every bat. I can only imagine that loke any of the Kransbueller bats it is well made and will perform. The SSH doee not really appeal to me personally.
This season's bats had a standard handle.
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Really the XP70/80 are designed for true bounce and pace where you are playing on the up or cutting and pulling. If I was on lower deck that hold up I would either try and play front foot...but I'm a amateur. Traditional or subcontinent shapes probably suit those conditions better.
That's helpful.
I suppose that Warner replica is a bat for all conditions then but it is 2-13 minimum.