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[Blazer]

Just a follow on from the topic about Sachin's bat. My first bat was a SG in harrow size which weighed about 2 lbs 4 oz which had a tiny middle. I then bought a BAS bat which was perfect in every way and weighed 2lbs 9 oz and many bats around the same weight. I started experimenting using a heavier SAF bat which was about 2.13 and was fantastic to drive and flick , but the cut and pulls suffered with me being late on the ball and nicking it behind. I feel my ideal bat weight is closer to 2.7 - 2.8 and the decision to use that weight was a combination of runs made and comfort at the crease. What are your experiences with different bat weights and how did you reach your perfect weight or close to it ?.
 

[Chad]

I used to use a 2.8-2.9, until I watched a video that Jason from CSO uploaded, saying that professionals use heavier weights, around 2.11-2.13 (not accurate, I know), and as a younger lad who knew no better, and since I could hardly bat, I decided to start going heavier. (I had nothing to lose, and wanted to try hit those big sixes!) I did find that heavier bats tend to pack more of a punch, I think I started off using a 2.11, which felt a little heavy, but connected nicer with the ball. From then, I've kind of gotten used to slightly heavier weights, and since my cut shots and pull shots were very weak then (Still aren't perfect, but I can at least connect!), and I had very limited shot selection, I can't give an accurate observation. My current match bat weighs about 2lb 12.5oz, which I feel in my head is right on my limit in terms of weight, but I just love the bat, it feels right in the hands and almost every shot I try play with it just feels right. (I like 2.10-2.12) It would all be down to the craftsmanship and quality of willow (Had a guy pick up the bat, and said he thought it was around 2.9, I think it picks up like a 2.10), and I have a feeling that the ideal sort of weight range I have is quite a wide spectrum, (2.9-2.13) but I feel pick up is what is more important. In the end though, it's about what you're willing to compromise in your game. (Speed and variety, or power) I have a fairly limited shot selection anyway, so I tend to go for more power.

Dead weight is still pretty important though, and I would say to avoid going out of your weight range. General rule I apply is maximum an ounce and a half above or below 2.11. (Try not to go below 2.10) If you ask forum members who are very picky about their bats, (Procricket Dave springs to mind) I'm sure he would tell you the same, he had a lovely B3 Trott bat which weighed around 2.10 I believe, picked up beautifully for him, but he felt he was a bit late on his shots. Weight reduction down to about 2.7 and he was a happy man!

[alee]

I am an opening batsman who plays all the shots. I used a puma cobalt 5000 last year which was 2lbs 7.4 ounces.

For me, a lighter bat can get you in a good position to play a shot. If you move your feet you can turn

a good ball into a bad one. Also, i tend to stay at the crease for a longer time. Spending time in the middle

is of great value even though you wish runs were easy to get. However, i purchased a GN bat which is around

2.11 with two grips. I am hoping to use it this coming season. Let's see how it goes, I have played with 2.11 before and have scored

lots of runs in the past.

[Wickets-then-runs]

I am now in my mid-40's and started back into cricket around 6 years ago. At that time, I went for the weight everyone suggested which was 2.8 pounds. I'm a pretty big guy and found that I was through the shot a lot of the time. A few years ago, I bought the first Amplus in Australia at a weight of around 2.12. It took a little while to get used to but I found that it slowed my stroke down so i could play the shot later and got better value for my swing even though I wasn't swinging as hard (greater mass behind the ball, etc). This lead to fewer edges and better straight drives. A recent shoulder injury has started me looking for a lighter bat but I am still a fan of the "let the bat do the work" theory...

[lazza32]

i am tempted to try a heavier bat. I usually use a 2.8/9 but find i lose a lot of technique when driving a ball. I might even look at a heavier amplus style bat say around 2.12.

[Pendles10]

I'm also very tempted, I've used 2.9 for a long time and have recently gotten out due to playing the shot too early.........Just another reason to get a new bat

[Cys1]

Guys, playing too early is a technical issue and does not having anything to do with your bat weight. Once you get used to the heavier weight the bad habits will set in and you will play too early again. Rather focus on how you can hit the ball later and save yourselves lots more money.

2 quick ways of training to play later.
1.) Watch where the has bounced when playing shots. Sounds basic enough but most of us pick up line and length and then estimate where the ball is going to bounce and then take our eyes off it before playing the shot.
2.) hit the ball straight into the ground when driving. This forces you to get over the ball and wait a liitle bit longer before playing the shot.

Give these a go first and see what happens.

[lazza32]

Save money!!??your on the wrong forum

Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

[RaepTiem]

i hate heavy bats, seriously affects my cross bat shots. i use a 2.6 and my other bat is 2.7. dont care about the edges overly much,25-35 mm is fine, but i like how concaved bats give the bigger edges. on the topic of concaved bats, i've never felt the difference of concaved and non-concaved bats. i know non concaved bats provide a larger sweet spot, but to me, a 2.7 convex shape bat is pretty much the same thing as 2.7 concaved bat, which is the reason i have concaved bats.

[Wickets-then-runs]

Wait for it...........

[uknsaunders]

I have used bats from 2'7 up to 3'4oz. Sometimes you have to make the odd mistake to work out what works for you. I did actually get alot of runs with 3'4oz bat but it was a case of all or nothing. If the ball moved around I simply couldn't adjust. Cross bat shots didn't happen much either but the pickup was extremely good for a bat of that weight, so I got away with it for a while. Problem was my arms and shoulders would ache like nothing on earth the day after a big knock! Even when I went down to a 2'12 bat I would still feel my back swing shorten to compensate.

Over the years I have worked out a rule of thumb that anything above 2'9-10 is a complete no go. My best seasons run wise have been made with a 2'9 and I have a lovely Icon that picks up wonderfully well but is 2'10. If the pickup is average or it has a lower middle then we are talking 2'7/2'8 . If I go to a shop now and I think the pickup feels good I will then ask what the weight is. If it's above 2'10 I put the bat back. "Shop" pickup is your worst enemy as you end up thinking a bat can be used when in fact 30 minutes at the crease proves otherwise! Another tip is to play a cut shot using the minimal amount of right hand possible. If you right hand has to force the bat through the shot(essentially to keep it up), instead of merely kicking in from the contact point as a final flourish, then it's too heavy.

End of the day, no point having a big bat if you can't hit the ball. Being able to adjust to the moving ball or adapt your shot choice is more important to staying in than smacking it 20 yards further.

[Wickets-then-runs]

i hate heavy bats, seriously affects my cross bat shots. i use a 2.6 and my other bat is 2.7. dont care about the edges overly much,25-35 mm is fine, but i like how concaved bats give the bigger edges. on the topic of concaved bats, i've never felt the difference of concaved and non-concaved bats. i know non concaved bats provide a larger sweet spot, but to me, a 2.7 convex shape bat is pretty much the same thing as 2.7 concaved bat, which is the reason i have concaved bats.

Wait for it...........

[GarrettJ]

the difference between a 2.8 and a 2.10 is the same weight as the stickers and the grip ........... not sure it can make that much difference to the power you get into a shot.

2.8 to 3lb+ is a different story as the difference is significant.

I'd advise people to ditch the obsession with exact weights, walk into a shop/batmakers den and tell them you want to test EVERY bat under 3lb or over 3lb (if you like heavy bats). give them a swing pick them up do whatever and then narrow them down to 2 or 3 and test the response with a ball. then down to the final one. If you cant decide which one go with based on the ping get the cheapest or the one that looks best ....... depends on you preference

I did this and i have a 2.13 bat which feels like a 2.10 ... everyone who picks it up says its 2.10 but 3oz is nothing, especially if the extra weight is in the handle (two grips)

[trypewriter]

I have used bats from 2'7 up to 3'4oz. Sometimes you have to make the odd mistake to work out what works for you. I did actually get alot of runs with 3'4oz bat but it was a case of all or nothing. If the ball moved around I simply couldn't adjust. Cross bat shots didn't happen much either but the pickup was extremely good for a bat of that weight, so I got away with it for a while. Problem was my arms and shoulders would ache like nothing on earth the day after a big knock! Even when I went down to a 2'12 bat I would still feel my back swing shorten to compensate.

Over the years I have worked out a rule of thumb that anything above 2'9-10 is a complete no go. My best seasons run wise have been made with a 2'9 and I have a lovely Icon that picks up wonderfully well but is 2'10. If the pickup is average or it has a lower middle then we are talking 2'7/2'8 . If I go to a shop now and I think the pickup feels good I will then ask what the weight is. If it's above 2'10 I put the bat back. "Shop" pickup is your worst enemy as you end up thinking a bat can be used when in fact 30 minutes at the crease proves otherwise! Another tip is to play a cut shot using the minimal amount of right hand possible. If you right hand has to force the bat through the shot(essentially to keep it up), instead of merely kicking in from the contact point as a final flourish, then it's too heavy.

End of the day, no point having a big bat if you can't hit the ball. Being able to adjust to the moving ball or adapt your shot choice is more important to staying in than smacking it 20 yards further.

I agree

[Cys1]

3oz could be the difference between hooking a short ball or eating it. 
My point was not arguing the virtues of lighter, bats but to point out that a technical flaw cannot be rectified by changing bat weights.