Topic: Grade 3 (Read 19025 times)

Number 11 · « **Reply #30 on:** November 20, 2013, 05:56:09 PM »

Looks really good, especially for a G3, seen worse supposedly G1 and 2's.

jamesisapayne · « **Reply #31 on:** November 20, 2013, 08:56:56 PM »

Quote from: Aldred Cricket Bats on November 20, 2013, 03:09:54 PM

Ok here's a grade 3 shaped up and just oiled for someone on here. It's in the very latest shape of which my stickers haven't even been made yet but it's a beauty.

Is this some sort of joke Paul!

How on earth is that a grade 3 - I've seen worse top grade bats from GN and M&H - a superb looking bat.

jwebber86 · « **Reply #32 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:06:31 PM »

that is an awesome bat cant believe its only grade 3.

what is the reason for this grading?

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #33 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:43:14 PM »

The reason it's a grade 3 is that it is a grade 3. We grade our bats very much on performance but looks do have to come into it. For me it hasn't got enough perfect grains to counter act the amount of heart wood in it really. It's a personal choice from my point of view. Now that we are becoming more popular and we have shops wanting to get involved with me I have to be even more ruthless in many ways which is a shame but that's the way it is unfortunately because the way we press we get great performance through all the grades

JB · « **Reply #34 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:48:34 PM »

I can't wait to get my hands on it Paul!!

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #35 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:51:59 PM »

Quote from: Number 11 on November 20, 2013, 05:56:09 PM

Looks really good, especially for a G3, seen worse supposedly G1 and 2's.

Well the fact is that if you are offered a grade 1 for �80 or �90 the chances are it sins a grade 1. It could be for sure but if it is the person who's made it hasn't made any money on it as the best part of that �90 is for the cleft alone then you have to fit a quality handle and then your glues bindings grips and stickers never mind labour.the saying is, If it seems too good to be true it probably is

farnham_quins_2 · « **Reply #36 on:** November 21, 2013, 06:41:43 AM »

Some serious value for money here.

Chris, that 5th cleft looks great.

Paul, that new shape looks lovely! Really wish i had some money, and less bats...

billyb · « **Reply #37 on:** November 21, 2013, 10:29:18 AM »

You could make a killing making proper Purist replicas, Paul, in grade 3.

How light could you make them, without sacrificing performance?

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #38 on:** November 21, 2013, 12:52:26 PM »

Quote from: farnham_quins_2 on November 21, 2013, 06:41:43 AM

Some serious value for money here.

Chris, that 5th cleft looks great.

Paul, that new shape looks lovely! Really wish i had some money, and less bats...

Yes I absolutely love the shape. And it's pick up is unbelievable too, I love the more traditional shape bats I think they still take a lot of beating. It's all down to fashion but I reckon these will be the next popular thing

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #39 on:** November 21, 2013, 01:26:55 PM »

Quote from: billyb on November 21, 2013, 10:29:18 AM

You could make a killing making proper Purist replicas, Paul, in grade 3.

How light could you make them, without sacrificing performance?

Well it's dependent on what clefts we get in. If they start off heavier obviously it's harder to get the weight down. People get hung up on weight and specifically finished weight. Other bat makers may not agree with me but looking at it from a players point of view I want as much wood in my bat as possible but still having the bat feel right in hand. I personally think the best way of doing this is by having the weight you want but when the bat is naked. The reason for this is that by the time you have bound and gripped it there is between 2-4 oz of weight in these items alone dependent on your specific products, my grips alone weigh a good 2 oz. So if you want a 2-7 the bat would need to be 2-4is before you dress it. But when you put the bindings on and grip it the extra weight is going into the top of the bat so this makes the pick up even better. So if you have a bat maker that makes bats with a good pick up you are made, you can have it made at 2-7 naked it will come out 2-9 2-10 finished but it feels great and has more wood in it and so hopefully if pressed properly giving you greater performance. I made one up for an old playing colleague who usually uses 2-8 / 9 and he went away with 2-11 as it felt so good for him.

lazza32 · « **Reply #40 on:** November 21, 2013, 01:35:55 PM »

Quote from: Aldred Cricket Bats on November 21, 2013, 01:26:55 PM

Well it's dependent on what clefts we get in. If they start off heavier obviously it's harder to get the weight down. People get hung up on weight and specifically finished weight. Other bat makers may not agree with me but looking at it from a players point of view I want as much wood in my bat as possible but still having the bat feel right in hand. I personally think the best way of doing this is by having the weight you want but when the bat is naked. The reason for this is that by the time you have bound and gripped it there is between 2-4 oz of weight in these items alone dependent on your specific products, my grips alone weigh a good 2 oz. So if you want a 2-7 the bat would need to be 2-4is before you dress it. But when you put the bindings on and grip it the extra weight is going into the top of the bat so this makes the pick up even better. So if you have a bat maker that makes bats with a good pick up you are made, you can have it made at 2-7 naked it will come out 2-9 2-10 finished but it feels great and has more wood in it and so hopefully if pressed properly giving you greater performance. I made one up for an old playing colleague who usually uses 2-8 / 9 and he went away with 2-11 as it felt so good for him.

Good point. I usually use 2.8 but picked up a amplus and the 2.10 felt really good so I took the 2.10 instead of the 2.86 and yes the 2.10 had a lot more wood, almost no concaving

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #41 on:** November 21, 2013, 03:06:15 PM »

A little concaving is fine really what spoils it is when they take huge amounts out so the edges look big but you have lost the guts of the bat. Gentle concaving is fine if it's done in the right way.

trypewriter · « **Reply #42 on:** November 21, 2013, 03:31:25 PM »

can't argue with that

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #43 on:** November 21, 2013, 06:03:25 PM »

Will post some more grade 3 pics up for grabs tomorrow afternoon

Alvaro · « **Reply #44 on:** November 21, 2013, 07:29:55 PM »

Great.

Author Topic: Grade 3 (Read 19025 times)

Number 11

Re: Grade 3

jamesisapayne

Re: Grade 3

jwebber86

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

JB

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

farnham_quins_2

Re: Grade 3

billyb

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

lazza32

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

trypewriter

Re: Grade 3

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Grade 3

Alvaro

Re: Grade 3