Topic: Bat shapes and hitting areas (Read 5650 times)

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **on:** February 06, 2014, 05:33:33 PM »

Ok guys hope this answers a few questions for you. Sorry not been on much recently but been kinda busy but just a little piece which may well enlighten you as to my opinions on bats shapes and the importance of pressing are as they are.

http://youtu.be/2f2xHD4VyR4

trypewriter · « **Reply #1 on:** February 06, 2014, 05:54:34 PM »

Enlightening as always Paul. How does bat shape alter the pick up? (Sorry to give you homework!).

Chad · « **Reply #2 on:** February 06, 2014, 06:38:41 PM »

Interesting, I agree mostly, but disagree with a point. I feel that the middle position does matter, in that the absolute bulk of the wood should be where you hit the ball the most for your most productive shots. However, if you made your Velocity profile for someone who likes higher middles, to their ideal pick up, balance and weight, I think you are right in saying that they will be able to score runs with it almost as well, as I agree with your statement about the playing area. I have a Bulldog shaped to a lowered Amplus profile, which has the main bulk of the wood around 10 inches from the toe, but just immediately above that, the bat feels dead, but it feels pretty responsive around 2 inches from the toe.

I have a feeling it has to do with the handle of the bat, as it is where you hold the bat, (pivotal point?) so as you swing it, there will be an area which will be the ideal contact area, ie. the playing area, which is pretty consistent with bats the same length, assuming they are handled and pressed well. I wonder if this affects the playing area of a LH or a LB bat though... Have you had a chance to do an experiment on the playing area of different sized bats with different handle sizes? Maybe there's some sort of link� Or maybe I'm just talking BS.

tim2000s · « **Reply #3 on:** February 06, 2014, 06:45:20 PM »

Chad, there is a lot of science in relation to this relating to vibrational nodes, mass moments of inertia and coefficient of restitution, not to mention Newtonian mechanics. Happy to have a chat with you about it.

What Paul does is pull all of this together as an artisan, and make it work.

procricket · « **Reply #4 on:** February 06, 2014, 06:48:36 PM »

Very good video and through my experience with bats got to say the nail is hit on the head in most areas and exact.
You make it sound as it is and too many talk about mumbo jumbo stuff when it comes to it bats are simple things yet people complicate great video Paul

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #5 on:** February 06, 2014, 07:07:48 PM »

Quote from: Chad on February 06, 2014, 06:38:41 PM

Interesting, I agree mostly, but disagree with a point. I feel that the middle position does matter, in that the absolute bulk of the wood should be where you hit the ball the most for your most productive shots. However, if you made your Velocity profile for someone who likes higher middles, to their ideal pick up, balance and weight, I think you are right in saying that they will be able to score runs with it almost as well, as I agree with your statement about the playing area. I have a Bulldog shaped to a lowered Amplus profile, which has the main bulk of the wood around 10 inches from the toe, but just immediately above that, the bat feels dead, but it feels pretty responsive around 2 inches from the toe.

I have a feeling it has to do with the handle of the bat, as it is where you hold the bat, (pivotal point?) so as you swing it, there will be an area which will be the ideal contact area, ie. the playing area, which is pretty consistent with bats the same length, assuming they are handled and pressed well. I wonder if this affects the playing area of a LH or a LB bat though... Have you had a chance to do an experiment on the playing area of different sized bats with different handle sizes? Maybe there's some sort of link� Or maybe I'm just talking BS.

Obviously yes you are altering the bulk area of the bat slightly according to each player but it is relatively minimalistic in the grand scheme of things. That's the art of it but generally speaking taking more out the toe of the bat and taking the bulk up the bat is going to make it feel lighter but it can be to the detriment of the performance of the bat, likewise a lot more wood down the toe is if not shaped properly will feel bottom heavy. That's the tricky bit making the pick up feel good whilst leaving the bulk of the wood in the important area.
I would not even attempt to explain the science of it all leave that to tim as I was only good at getting detention at school for science. But through experience of a combination of playing and making I do know the feel that is right for a good bat that works for me and the way I do it. If my brain suddenly takes in all the science I will let you know but I am afraid too many glasses of sweet sherry have passed over the brain cells over the years for me to start taking all that in.

Number 11 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 06, 2014, 07:22:10 PM »

Just did a little experiment with a 2 foot steel rule.
Held one end down on a bench and tapped it about 6 inches from the end a a foot from the end.
Watching the end when tapped at 1 foot, it was oscillating uncontrollably when compared to tapping at the 6 inch point.
A bat will be doing something similar, once above a certain point you get the mad oscillation and the ball doesn't fly off.

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #7 on:** February 06, 2014, 07:34:47 PM »

Sounds like you could bat with a stick of rhubarb

brokenbat · « **Reply #8 on:** February 06, 2014, 07:51:33 PM »

while i agree with the general conclusion, there was one specific point I am not sure I understand. Is the hitting area really just between 2inces (51mm) and 8 inches (203 mm) ? There are lots of 'higher middle' bats that claim to have a hitting area well above that 203mm mark. For example, http://www.kookaburra.biz/osb/itemdetails.cfm/ID/1735

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #9 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:16:24 PM »

This measurement will be the highest point at the back of the bat. It will have a very light pick up. But I would bet my bottom dollar that the actual hitting area is barely any different to any other good bat.

brokenbat · « **Reply #10 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:18:21 PM »

Quote from: Aldred Cricket Bats on February 06, 2014, 08:16:24 PM

This measurement will be the highest point at the back of the bat. It will have a very light pick up. But I would bet my bottom dollar that the actual hitting area is barely any different to any other good bat.

ah ok. so you're saying that the peak in the swell, doesn't neccessarily coincide with the 'sweetspot'?

Gingerbusiness · « **Reply #11 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:23:48 PM »

Quote from: brokenbat on February 06, 2014, 07:51:33 PM

while i agree with the general conclusion, there was one specific point I am not sure I understand. Is the hitting area really just between 2inces (51mm) and 8 inches (203 mm) ? There are lots of 'higher middle' bats that claim to have a hitting area well above that 203mm mark. For example, http://www.kookaburra.biz/osb/itemdetails.cfm/ID/1735

Am I right in thinking Kahunas are generally designed around Pontings shape (Higher middle for bouncier wickets)? Therefore the middle is high up the bat?

The ones shown in the video are designed for standard bounce wickets.

Could be talking rubbish...

The M&H Original Low and Solution are designed for slow, low wickets?

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #12 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:24:04 PM »

Well if you think about it in common sense terms, if you put the swell just under the splice would it make that part of the bat a sweet hitting zone or is it still going to rattle your hands if you try and strike the ball up there. There is an optimum area on the blade where the ball will react from and that is pretty much a fixed area with slight adjustments but we are talking slight really. Likewise if you have wood all the way down to the toe is the toe going to be a sweet spot. No it just makes the toe stronger.

Aldred Cricket Bats · « **Reply #13 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:32:24 PM »

Quote from: Gingerbusiness on February 06, 2014, 08:23:48 PM

Am I right in thinking Kahunas are generally designed around Pontings shape (Higher middle for bouncier wickets)? Therefore the middle is high up the bat?

The ones shown in the video are designed for standard bounce wickets.

Could be talking rubbish...

The M&H Original Low and Solution are designed for slow, low wickets?

Ok so here's an example of one of the greats playing on test wickets with what some would describe as a low wicket profile bat

VKS · « **Reply #14 on:** February 06, 2014, 08:58:21 PM »

A very good video Paul. Sound words which I hope more listen and pay attention too.

Author Topic: Bat shapes and hitting areas (Read 5650 times)

Aldred Cricket Bats

Bat shapes and hitting areas

trypewriter

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Chad

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

tim2000s

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

procricket

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Number 11

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

brokenbat

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

brokenbat

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Gingerbusiness

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

Aldred Cricket Bats

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas

VKS

Re: Bat shapes and hitting areas