Print

[j.f.101]

My t20 bat has developed a small crack which seems to just be down to compression as far as I can tell. I've been putting off fixing it for a while but finally managed to borrow a good clamp today and will have some glue for it by tomorrow.

It should be a simple glue-clamp-tape case, but I was just wondering what advice people would give when it comes to dealing with the scuff sheet? The crack is right in the middle of the toe and goes about an inch up the blade, so would it be best to just try and peel the scuff sheet back, or maybe cut it around the crack so that only a small 'flap' needs to be peeled? Also, would it be a good idea to try and open the crack up at all to make sure the glue goes in well?

Any advice much appreciated!

[Vitas Cricket]

That doesn't need a clamp.

'Glue and clamp it' seems to be the default response when ever someone asks about a crack. Unless that crack goes all the way through the toe from front to back there is no need for a clamp.

That's a surface crack, just sit some PVA glue of top of it, and then wrap it in parcel tape. Leave overnight and sand to a neat finish.

[j.f.101]

Cheers for the response - only issue is that the scuff sheet is going to get in the way of any sanding unless I peel it back a very long way surely?

[Seniorplayer]

Yes that's a ball compression just do as suggested and apply Glue no need to remove the scuff just lightly sandpaper glue excess off face and apply fibreglass tape if the bottom  of the scuff becomes ragged apply the fibre glass tape over the bottom face edge of the scuff working downwards over the compression repair. Two layers of tape will be sufficient.

[Chalkie]

That doesn't need a clamp.

'Glue and clamp it' seems to be the default response when ever someone asks about a crack. Unless that crack goes all the way through the toe from front to back there is no need for a clamp.

That's a surface crack, just sit some PVA glue of top of it, and then wrap it in parcel tape. Leave overnight and sand to a neat finish.

Can I ask - why PVA and not wood glue, or is the latter best used when the crack is deeper and then should be applied with a needle and syringe?

[skip1973]

PVA is wood glue.

[Seniorplayer]

Just to clairify                                                                                                                                                            Although PVA is a wood glue if water is applied  it will soften.
Proper wood glue or carpenters glue contains resin and polyurethane which makes it waterproof.

[Chalkie]

oh, ok so they are similar but slightly different.

So is it best to use wood glue for repairs where you can, or is PVA better because it is softer/less brittle when dry?

[j.f.101]

Yes that's a ball compression just do as suggested and apply Glue no need to remove the scuff just lightly sandpaper glue excess off face and apply fibreglass tape if the bottom  of the scuff becomes ragged apply the fibre glass tape over the bottom face edge of the scuff working downwards over the compression repair. Two layers of tape will be sufficient.

Unfortunately I can't actually get to the top of the crack without removing the scuff sheet in one way or another as the entire crack is covered by it. Think it's going to be easiest to cut it around the crack and bend it to one side so the whole crack can be glued.

[Gurujames]

oh, ok so they are similar but slightly different.

So is it best to use wood glue for repairs where you can, or is PVA better because it is softer/less brittle when dry?

The most common 'wood glue' is PVA, it sets firmly, is easy to use and readily available. There are many other glues the glue timber but either set too hard and can shatter with the force of a cricket ball (eg epoxy resin). Or require the surfaces to be wetted and so no good for many cracks (polyurethane glues eg gorilla glue) Or too viscous to inject with a needle.
Unless glue gets into a crack it will not bond the pieces together. If this was me I would inject the glue in. Then you can get right into the crack and don't need tomremove the scuff sheet. However, a previous post is probably correct. If you did nothing it probably wouldn't get (much) worse. There is no need to water PVA down.

[Vitas Cricket]

Unfortunately I can't actually get to the top of the crack without removing the scuff sheet in one way or another as the entire crack is covered by it. Think it's going to be easiest to cut it around the crack and bend it to one side so the whole crack can be glued.

The easiest thing to do is remove the scuff sheet from edge to edge to reduce willow strip, carry out the repair and then sand the entire face clean, then apply another scuff sheet.

If you don't have the equipment/confidence to sand the face, or you don't have another scuff sheet, then use a stanley knife to cut the scuff sheet just above the damage across the face at 90 degrees to the edges, then peel away the section of sheet below the cut, exposing the damage. After repairing, apply fibre tape to the exposed area.

PVA glue is in my opinion the best glue, it's certainly the most versatile. There is no need to water the glue down in my opinion, it will only serve to weaken the bond. If you are concerned about filling all the gaps in a crack, you can inject the glue using a needle (not necessary in this case in my opinion) or use a straw to blow the glue right into the gaps. Tightly wrap with parcel tape and leave the bat in a position where gravity will continue to pull the glue into the crack.

[Chalkie]

@Vitas thanks for the tips

 is the parcel tape the shiny brown stuff that is about 50mm wide?

What job does the tape do and isn't it hard to remove once the glue is dry?

[Vitas Cricket]

@Vitas thanks for the tips

 is the parcel tape the shiny brown stuff that is about 50mm wide?

What job does the tape do and isn't it hard to remove once the glue is dry?

Yes, slight stretch to allow for a tight wrap. It wraps tightly round the bat and helps to compress any gaps between the cracks. It is easy to remove once the glue is dry, any remaining tape is easily sanded off.

[j.f.101]

The easiest thing to do is remove the scuff sheet from edge to edge to reduce willow strip, carry out the repair and then sand the entire face clean, then apply another scuff sheet.

If you don't have the equipment/confidence to sand the face, or you don't have another scuff sheet, then use a stanley knife to cut the scuff sheet just above the damage across the face at 90 degrees to the edges, then peel away the section of sheet below the cut, exposing the damage. After repairing, apply fibre tape to the exposed area.

PVA glue is in my opinion the best glue, it's certainly the most versatile. There is no need to water the glue down in my opinion, it will only serve to weaken the bond. If you are concerned about filling all the gaps in a crack, you can inject the glue using a needle (not necessary in this case in my opinion) or use a straw to blow the glue right into the gaps. Tightly wrap with parcel tape and leave the bat in a position where gravity will continue to pull the glue into the crack.

Cheers for the advice - ended up levering the scuff sheet up with a knife/screwdriver, which allowed good access to the crack. Not going to be able to sand it particularly well but hopefully this should avoid any scuff sheet removing hassle and provide at least a relatively strong fix! 

[Fost3r89]

Hi guys i have a question for you ive purchased a GM mogul players edition (GM NOW). Even though it was ready to go i decided to put some time into knocking it in and rounding off the edges. Long story short a surface crack has developed vertically following the grain up from the toe to 2/3 of the way up (didnt realise it was cracking cause of edge tape). Ive almost sanded the crack out of the bat, my question is if i sand the crack out will that fix my surface crack problem or will it be a weak spot in the wood were it will always happen now (p.s the edge that had the crack running up the grain was heart wood if that matters)
Thanks in advance for your advice.