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[prabhu1985]

Hey Guys,

I just got my first SS bat (Gladiator 2016 model). I ordered via onlinestockist and Its looks amazing.. When I intially got the bat, i tested the ping with ball. The ball was bouncing like crazy, I could not even feel the ball toughing the bat. And willow felt very soft and it had a bit of spring action feel to it.

Q. Since I started knocking it (about 2 hours), I found the face of bat has compressed a bit. The bat's face feels more solid BUT im not sure if I can still feel same kind of ping anymore. Ive stopped knocking since.  Is this normal OR am I  just going paranoid?

Thanks guys.

[sgcricket]

Amazing grains on that one.

My advice is to flatten the rest of the playing area so that it is even.

[jd163]

The sound changes a bit when u compress the face of the bat. Keep knocking the face until you cant make any further dents.

[Alvaro]

Bouncing a ball only tells you so much about the ping.

You'll get a real idea once you've played it in at the nets.

[prabhu1985]

Thanks Guys!!.   Il continue knocking in. Maybe a nets session will reveal the true ping.

[sachin200]

Once you have done oiling and two hrs of knocking, my favorite way of preparing is put-on at least two scuffsheets (ideally three) and take it in against bowling machine. Those balls don't have seam so they most likely won't dent your bat and start with 60 mph. Play for a few weeks and the bat will be ready. Then take off the extra scuff sheets and take it to the nets.
When you work with the mallet for two hrs, knocking the edges and toe is the key so they won't break against the bowling machine.

[prabhu1985]

Thanks sachin200. Will try that. 

[kvskpin]

Finally, my 9th bat has arrived last week and it is an SS Gladiator, the exact same one that you have, albeit, mine has 9 grains. Having gone through the pain of knocking for 9 bats, this is my experience:

Before Knocking in:
1. Top 1 cm of bat - Medium hard
2. Back of the bat - Soft
3. Handle - New and Stiff

This depends on how the bat is pressed. Some manufacturers like SG, GM press their bat harder than others. SS presses their bats moderate to light, but each Gladiator is individually pressed for performance, so, no two Gladiators are the same.

What you intend to have after Knocking in is a hard layer on top of the bat - especially Edges and Toe. So, the end result at the end of knocking should look like this:

1. Top 2 mm of the bat - Hard top
2. Next 8 mm of the bat  - Medium Hard
3. Back of bat - Soft
4. Handle - New and Stiff

Step 1 - What I do is apply 3 extremely light coats of Linseed Oil - I avoid extratec during knocking in because I want to look at the blade directly while knocking in and look for myself as to what the mallet is doing. Also Extratec tends to dislodge near the edges if applied before knocking.

Step 2 - Very light knocking with a mallet - one so gentle that any harder will wake up a baby. The reason for this pass is not to knock the bat, but to understand the bat and to give you a feel of how the blade is pressed - there are times when the bottom is pressed more than the top of the blade.

Step 3 - Round of the edges and Toe - Starting gently, and increasing in intensity, I round off the edges and Toe. Spend about 30 mins on this.

Step 4 - Starting with gentle taps, slowly increasing the intensity cover the whole blade other than handle - don't forget the shoulder of the bat. Spend about 1 hour on this

I make it a point not to knock it too hard - the idea is not to spoil the expert pressing that was done by the manufacturer. A lot of people on the net promote hard knocking to the extend of denting the bat, I don't do that.

At this stage, the bat has a tough face, a medium hard top part and a soft back - which is what is exactly needed. You will notice that the performance would diminish slightly, but don't worry. This is time to put in an extratec and then head for nets.

This process is about introducing the bat to balls - start with old balls (junior size, 142 grams) for 30 mins, then old senior balls (156 grams) for 30 mins, then medium used junior balls (142 grams) for 30 mins. Repeat this for 3 days, then start with medium used senior balls (156 grams) and play for atleast 1 hour for the next 3 to 4 days. By this time, the bat is pretty much match ready. The end result is:

1. Hard Top face
2. Medium Hard Top part - exactly like what the manufacturer has pressed it for
3. Soft Back
4. Loosened and flexing handle with whip (this is because of use in the nets)

It is after the net sessions that the bat really opens up on performance, not immediately after knocking in. Infact, the performance detoriates ever so slightly immediately after knocking in

[Righthand]

The bat looks like a beauty! What are the specs? a side profile shot if possible? Thanks.

[Righthand]

Bouncing a ball only tells you so much about the ping.

You'll get a real idea once you've played it in at the nets.

Do you mean if a bat pings really well before knocking it wouldst necessarily perform as well in the nets?

[Righthand]

Finally, my 9th bat has arrived last week and it is an SS Gladiator, the exact same one that you have, albeit, mine has 9 grains. Having gone through the pain of knocking for 9 bats, this is my experience:

Before Knocking in:
1. Top 1 cm of bat - Medium hard
2. Back of the bat - Soft
3. Handle - New and Stiff

This depends on how the bat is pressed. Some manufacturers like SG, GM press their bat harder than others. SS presses their bats moderate to light, but each Gladiator is individually pressed for performance, so, no two Gladiators are the same.

What you intend to have after Knocking in is a hard layer on top of the bat - especially Edges and Toe. So, the end result at the end of knocking should look like this:

1. Top 2 mm of the bat - Hard top
2. Next 8 mm of the bat  - Medium Hard
3. Back of bat - Soft
4. Handle - New and Stiff

Step 1 - What I do is apply 3 extremely light coats of Linseed Oil - I avoid extratec during knocking in because I want to look at the blade directly while knocking in and look for myself as to what the mallet is doing. Also Extratec tends to dislodge near the edges if applied before knocking.

Step 2 - Very light knocking with a mallet - one so gentle that any harder will wake up a baby. The reason for this pass is not to knock the bat, but to understand the bat and to give you a feel of how the blade is pressed - there are times when the bottom is pressed more than the top of the blade.

Step 3 - Round of the edges and Toe - Starting gently, and increasing in intensity, I round off the edges and Toe. Spend about 30 mins on this.

Step 4 - Starting with gentle taps, slowly increasing the intensity cover the whole blade other than handle - don't forget the shoulder of the bat. Spend about 1 hour on this

I make it a point not to knock it too hard - the idea is not to spoil the expert pressing that was done by the manufacturer. A lot of people on the net promote hard knocking to the extend of denting the bat, I don't do that.

At this stage, the bat has a tough face, a medium hard top part and a soft back - which is what is exactly needed. You will notice that the performance would diminish slightly, but don't worry. This is time to put in an extratec and then head for nets.

This process is about introducing the bat to balls - start with old balls (junior size, 142 grams) for 30 mins, then old senior balls (156 grams) for 30 mins, then medium used junior balls (142 grams) for 30 mins. Repeat this for 3 days, then start with medium used senior balls (156 grams) and play for atleast 1 hour for the next 3 to 4 days. By this time, the bat is pretty much match ready. The end result is:

1. Hard Top face
2. Medium Hard Top part - exactly like what the manufacturer has pressed it for
3. Soft Back
4. Loosened and flexing handle with whip (this is because of use in the nets)

It is after the net sessions that the bat really opens up on performance, not immediately after knocking in. Infact, the performance detoriates ever so slightly immediately after knocking in

That is some precision, very interesting method. I'm assuming this has worked well for you?

[FattusCattus]

Finally, my 9th bat has arrived last week and it is an SS Gladiator, the exact same one that you have, albeit, mine has 9 grains. Having gone through the pain of knocking for 9 bats, this is my experience:

Before Knocking in:
1. Top 1 cm of bat - Medium hard
2. Back of the bat - Soft
3. Handle - New and Stiff

This depends on how the bat is pressed. Some manufacturers like SG, GM press their bat harder than others. SS presses their bats moderate to light, but each Gladiator is individually pressed for performance, so, no two Gladiators are the same.

What you intend to have after Knocking in is a hard layer on top of the bat - especially Edges and Toe. So, the end result at the end of knocking should look like this:

1. Top 2 mm of the bat - Hard top
2. Next 8 mm of the bat  - Medium Hard
3. Back of bat - Soft
4. Handle - New and Stiff

Step 1 - What I do is apply 3 extremely light coats of Linseed Oil - I avoid extratec during knocking in because I want to look at the blade directly while knocking in and look for myself as to what the mallet is doing. Also Extratec tends to dislodge near the edges if applied before knocking.

Step 2 - Very light knocking with a mallet - one so gentle that any harder will wake up a baby. The reason for this pass is not to knock the bat, but to understand the bat and to give you a feel of how the blade is pressed - there are times when the bottom is pressed more than the top of the blade.

Step 3 - Round of the edges and Toe - Starting gently, and increasing in intensity, I round off the edges and Toe. Spend about 30 mins on this.

Step 4 - Starting with gentle taps, slowly increasing the intensity cover the whole blade other than handle - don't forget the shoulder of the bat. Spend about 1 hour on this

I make it a point not to knock it too hard - the idea is not to spoil the expert pressing that was done by the manufacturer. A lot of people on the net promote hard knocking to the extend of denting the bat, I don't do that.

At this stage, the bat has a tough face, a medium hard top part and a soft back - which is what is exactly needed. You will notice that the performance would diminish slightly, but don't worry. This is time to put in an extratec and then head for nets.

This process is about introducing the bat to balls - start with old balls (junior size, 142 grams) for 30 mins, then old senior balls (156 grams) for 30 mins, then medium used junior balls (142 grams) for 30 mins. Repeat this for 3 days, then start with medium used senior balls (156 grams) and play for atleast 1 hour for the next 3 to 4 days. By this time, the bat is pretty much match ready. The end result is:

1. Hard Top face
2. Medium Hard Top part - exactly like what the manufacturer has pressed it for
3. Soft Back
4. Loosened and flexing handle with whip (this is because of use in the nets)

It is after the net sessions that the bat really opens up on performance, not immediately after knocking in. Infact, the performance detoriates ever so slightly immediately after knocking in

@tom line - I hope you've read all this. I don't want you knocking mine in round the back of the swings at the local rec with a tent peg mallet!!!

[wasted_talent]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the bat?

The grains are absolutely gorgeous !

[FattusCattus]

oil, play gently with balls, go nuts

I have heard this about you! 

[procricket]

unwrap and whack