Print

[WalkingWicket37]

As I was gluing the Master 1000 today, I thought I'd remove the scuff sheet from the red master "just in case" any work needed doing.

The scuff sheet came off fairy incident free, there were a couple of things I noticed though...


Some small cracks that should hopefully sand out of the toe


Can you see anything wrong here?


The owner clearly likes the inside edge!

[WalkingWicket37]

First up the master 1000

I slightly watered down some PVA glue and used a syringe to get the glue right into all the damaged areas.
I put glue into the bat from both the edge and through the delaminated areas on the face.


I then used making tape to protect the willow, and wrapped tightly with fibreglass tape to keep everything in place while the glue dries.





And as I had plenty of glue left, I did the red master too.
What I thought was a small crack on the edge turned out to be bigger than I anticipated...


And both bats wrapped up to dry.
Credit where it's due - the owner consistently hits the ball in the same place on the bat!

[WalkingWicket37]

Quick update on this. I left both bats a couple of days so the glue could set right into the delaminated area.

First up I removed the tape I had used as a clamp and the stickers.
There was plenty of residue left (the joys of refurbing an SS!)


The owner wanted the TON stamps removed, so that was the first thing I did while I had the 80 grit paper on the orbital.


I then used the 80 grit to remove the sticker residue, and quickly ran the sander over the whole blade to get the worst of the oil marks and sticker imprints off.








The Master 1000 still has marks where the stickers had been applied, but I still have plenty of sanding to do (120 up to 600 grit) so I hope both bats look nice and clean once I'm finished. If there are some slight sticker imprints left I won't be too upset, as the new stickers the owner is planning to apply should cover these. I will get some close up pictures of the retired area once I've sanded it with a slightly finer paper

[Alvaro]

It's a good looking job so far. A shame about the stickers - they did look good.

[Northern monkey]

Cam, does the blade width taper? Or is it just the camera angle?
Cracking job so far, and I fac&in hate getting sticker glue off

[WalkingWicket37]

It's a good looking job so far. A shame about the stickers - they did look good.

I did think they'd look nice cleaned up with the stickers left on, but "the customer s always right" and all.
If he's willing to pay for his bat to be fully stripped back, I won't refuse the job (even if I don't agree with him changing the stickers!)

[WalkingWicket37]

Cam, does the blade width taper? Or is it just the camera angle?
Cracking job so far, and I fac&in hate getting sticker glue off

It may just be the camera angle, but I'll measure them now to check 

[Alvaro]

I did think they'd look nice cleaned up with the stickers left on, but "the customer s always right" and all.
If he's willing to pay for his bat to be fully stripped back, I won't refuse the job (even if I don't agree with him changing the stickers!)

Oh completely agree. There ain't no accounting for taste!

[WalkingWicket37]

Just measured them and they do indeed taper, Mark! @Northern monkey
These measurements are after I started sanding, so there is a chance these bats were full width once (although I don't think I've taken that much wood off the edges (or tapered them myself, as I try to sand them evenly) to be honest with you!)

Master 1000
Width at ahoulders: 103mm
Width in middle: 105mm
Width at toe: 105mm

Red Master
Width at shoulders: 104mm
Width in middle: 106mm
Width at toe: 105mm

I'll put that down to your incredibly keen eye that you spores that, rather than my dodgy camera angle. 

And while I was out measuring I got a couple of pictures of the repaired area on the inside edge of the Master 1000.

[Northern monkey]

I've often thought about doing a similar taper on a bat and angling the edges too, just to see how much weight it would save

[WalkingWicket37]

Last update of the day on these.
Having decided to try and get most of the work done tonight, I braved the near freezing weather outside to finish the sanding with the orbital.

I have used 120, 180 & 240 grit on the orbital, to get the bats to what I call the "usable but not presentable stage"
These bats are now smooth enough that most people would happily use them, but as my mate is paying me to refurbish them I wouldn't be happy to return them like this.

After sanding with the 240 grit I like to apply a coat of oil. I will now leave these over night, then start the hand sanding (240 up to 600 grit) tomorrow.

The faces I'm fairly happy with




Some big blemishes on the outside edge of the red Master


And a dark mark, I believe caused by iron in the soil, in the back.
There are still some very prominent sticker marks on the back of the Master 1000

[InternalTraining]

Looking great!

How much weight did the bats lose if any?

[InternalTraining]

Did you sand out or glue the small cracks on the bat face?

[WalkingWicket37]

Did you sand out or glue the small cracks on the bat face?

I glued the delaminated area then sanded the whole face which dealt with the smaller cracks.

And I didn't weigh these before I started, so I don't know how much weight will have been lost. As I was only asked to clean them up I didn't think to get a weight at the start, I wish I had now as that could have been interesting with the fairly thick stickers, scuff sheet and edge tape all being removed before I started sanding.

Edit - you can still see a few cracks, but they've been sealed with glue and sanded so you can't feel then when you run your nail over the damage. A scuff sheet and some edge tape will hide the worse of it, anyway 

[velvetsky01]

a great thread and a great job!

I have just purchased a bat from ebay and will be taking the scuff off - in the past I have done so and tend to take up some wood when doing so.

Is there a way to fix this if it happens? or is it just a case of sanding it until it goes?