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[Komdotkom]

I would like to make a copy of a M&H S6 or Puma M&H made thing like Bevan used in the 90's.
I've got heaps of bats with 40mm edges, so for a change I would like something a bit different but these things are very hard to come by in Australia. Does anyone have some rough dimensions and characteristics?
I was thinking 22mm toe, 25mm max edge and maybe 18mm at the shoulder. Spine height as big as the cleft will allow, peak spine height finishes about 125mm up from the toe. I'm assuming they don't have much concaving?
When putting the 'plug' holes in the back, what do you think about using a 25mm spade bit and leaving 15mm of material at the bottom of the hole? I might use cedar for the plugs to get a nice contrast in timber colour.

Thoughts / input / tips greatly appreciated.

[potzy248]

Laver and Wood make the exact same thing as I've had one before.
James worked with Julian and has a replica in his workshop.

[Komdotkom]

Thanks mate, I've seen those on their website. I've got another bat on order from Laver at the moment, I really wanted to make this one myself as a bit of a challenge.
I'll see if I can prevail upon them to give me some basic numbers.

[Gurujames]

A Forstner drill will leave a cleaner hole. Cedar does not glue well due to the resins in it. How are you planning to make the plugs?

[Komdotkom]

I was just going to use a plug cutter. I saw on the L&W website that they have used dowels in theirs but I can't see how the end grain is going to look any good.
I've got some Zebrano timber left over from another project, that would make pretty plugs but too heavy. It's the low density of cedar that attracted me to it (plus I've got a few lining boards left over from my stairs), it's furniture grade so will be super dry - do you still think it won't glue well?
Thanks for the tip on the drill, looks like a much better option.

[edge]

This may be of some help: https://www.facebook.com/LaverandWood/videos/10156632539451974/

[Komdotkom]

Thanks Edge, I don't do Facebook so wasn't aware of that video.
Certainly provided more questions than answers though. I was under the impression that the plugs were to reduce the weight of the bat, but judging by how far he drives them in, I don't think there's going to be much of a gap at the bottom of the hole. Perhaps it's more about trapping air within the blade like an air spring?
I love that he drills the holes freehand, if I did that there would be putty on the face so you couldn't see where I'd gone through! Any thoughts on why they are drilled at a 30 degree angle toward the toe? I was just going to straight down.

[edge]

I'm sure there was a video where he talked about it all in more detail, but couldn't find it. Think the whole thing was for looks as much as anything else to be honest! Drilling the holes freehand looked sloppy as hell to me but suppose it isn't actually that important.

[Scruffy]

Just had this post brought to my attention so thought I would answer some of the questions...

The M&H Signature which James made back in England, which we have here in the workshop peaks at 27mm in the edge, 73 in the spine, 27 at the highest point of the toe and 22 at the lowest point of the toe. The shoulders are only around 12mm.

The reason for drilling the holes on an angle is to get the hole deeper and create more of an air pocket, the dowels aren't driven the whole way down, they are more of a plug.
James has said the holes are about 45-50mm deep at most. So quite deep.
We simply mark the drill bit with a permanent marker, to make sure we don't go too far!

Paul.

[Komdotkom]

Hi Paul,

Thanks very much for your detailed reply that helps immensely.
I started roughing in the shape last night so I'll transfer these dimensions on and see how they compare to my guess work.
So if the holes are 40-50mm deep, there must be about 12mm of thickness left in the face?

[Vicbats]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuyRnzPsH5A&feature=share that is the YouTube video of james talking about the bat

[Komdotkom]

Thanks for the link I hadn't realised they were two different profiles, that certainly explains a lot. I've gone for the English version (low middle) but since I like to plant the front foot and tee off that should suit me perfectly on the odd occasion when I make contact with the ball.
Does anyone have any theories about what the dowels are for (apart from looking different) and the best implementation of them?
I think a forstner dill is the go, my question is how much meat should I leave in the face and how much air gap for the plugs. I think I'll drill a hole with an 18mm bit then turn down a 19mm pine dowel to an interference fit.

[Vicbats]

No worries, my take on the dowels would be a balance point. I know over here in Australia you could get either 4 dowels or 6 dowels.

[Chompy9760]

Very interesting!
Just doing some quick maths, an 18mm hole, 50mm deep with a 20mm plug would give 7.6 cm3 of airspace.
X .640 density (guess?!) X 8 holes = 39g saved, or 1.37 oz
So if it's done for weight saving, It would  be easier to take 39g out with a travisher, but I admire your attention to detail and skills
Should look great when it's done!

[Komdotkom]

Yeah, 100% not for weight saving - it's purely aesthetic and just for something different.
The holes are 20mm but nowhere near 50mm deep (too scared of making the face thin) and the first half of the hole is on the angle anyway so it's only removing timber from 50% of the diameter.
I'm waiting for my 20mm plug cutter to arrive so I can make a mess from some cedar, otherwise my options are really only pine or 'tasmanian oak' which is a low density hardwood that's slightly heavier than oak.
I actually think that by the time I add glue and potentially a heavier timber plug the bat weight could increase.
Any tips on how to cut the plugs nicely would be appreciated, I think I probably should have done this earlier in the process so if I mark the bat of the bat with my ham fisted efforts I could always remove a bit more material but since it's pretty close to the finished shape I will have to be very careful.