Topic: The Myth of Performance Willow (Read 16570 times)

Talisman · « **on:** March 09, 2012, 01:06:29 PM »

Inspired by Norb's and his quest to test members on their knowledge I thought I'd prompt a debate about the much vaunted "Performance Willow".

When we choose a bat what factors in the willow itself are we looking for? What makes one bat play better than another? If we disregard shape, weight, handles, pressing etc and purely look at the blade itself what makes one �300+ and another sub �100? Why do some claim bats are misgraded by brands and proclaim to know more themselves?

I'll start off by saying that I believe we all want the maximum performance from our bat according to any set budget. So lets look at the face first, grains, what effect does the numbers, spacing and direction have?

What do we think of stain?, fleck?, pin knots?, dead knots?

Density, natural and forced.

What factors make a bat ugly yet perform?, is this in fact possible or simply the bat maker trying to sell off his low grade clefts?

Ayrtek Cricket · « **Reply #1 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:11:34 PM »

is this the equivalent to ugly women who have "great personalities"?

Talisman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:17:49 PM »

No, unless you only want to be with a lady for jiggy jiggy.

Bats only TomTek.

ProWannabe88 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:18:48 PM »

I've ways been of the impression that more stains and varying degrees of Brown wood will lower the grade but have been confused lately as many pro's and players I've spoken to since doing bits for RP tend to ask for butterfly stains and so called 'imperfections' as this area tends to be stiffer and can produce good performance. Then again I am no willow geek. Personally I like no more than 9-10 grains with even spacing, and although the grainilicious bats look nicer I think they feel harder. Ive found (and this is only from a few I've had) that the higher grained bats 12+ go better earlier but My others with around 9 grains are far better performers after they have been played in over half a season or so. it's odd really and very confusing for me as I don't have a vast knowledge but always like to learn. I'm sure there will be some logic behind it all other than pure cosmetics. There's a guy at my club though with an �80 5 grain warrior plank of a thing but when he hits the middle it stays HIT.

tim2000s · « **Reply #4 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:26:41 PM »

On this topic, you are given a bat that you are told by the maker has been selected for the performance of the willow. If your impression is that this bat will go, then the first time you use it you will probably find that it does.

For me, it's about how the bat feels when you use it and the noise it makes. I've had a couple that feel just wonderful to use, from feedback and vibration including sound effects. I've also had a couple that really suck in all departments. However, the thing that really makes the difference is the extent of the knocking in. The 500 to 600 run old bat is generally the one that really goes, regardless of the willow look.

ProWannabe88 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:31:26 PM »

So are we saying here regardless off willow grade and looks etc a bat that has been played in will always perform well afterwards?? That cant be entirely guranteed. It's all a bit odd for me, you could have the worst looking blade on earth but i bet a quality podshaver who can identify where the best playing area is could still make a bat you'd be happy using

Simmy · « **Reply #6 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:33:06 PM »

imo all im gonna go on is doesnt matter about grains stains etc all that crap..

more wood = better performance

Mike that 3.2 M&H u had made that i ended up with went like nothing i have ever used but it was the biggest bat id ever used,

Talisman · « **Reply #7 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:38:00 PM »

Maybe if I simplify it a little, would a 10 perfect grain blade with no cosmetic faults play as well as a 6 wobbly uneven grain blade with pin knots and fleck?

Kulli · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:44:57 PM »

Quote from: Talisman on March 09, 2012, 01:38:00 PM

Maybe if I simplify it a little, would a 10 perfect grain blade with no cosmetic faults play as well as a 6 wobbly uneven grain blade with pin knots and fleck?

Would or could?

ProWannabe88 · « **Reply #9 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:46:23 PM »

Quote from: Talisman on March 09, 2012, 01:38:00 PM

Maybe if I simplify it a little, would a 10 perfect grain blade with no cosmetic faults play as well as a 6 wobbly uneven grain blade with pin knots and fleck?

Does that not come down to pressing as well though. No matter how good a bat looks if its poorly pressed it will not perform to its potential. Is that not correct??

Talisman · « **Reply #10 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:48:30 PM »

Would, and ignore the pressing side as we are presuming that the pressing is equal for this question.

ProWannabe88 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:51:57 PM »

So would it come down to moisture content and drying process. I'm eliminating each aspect as I go along. Unless its just a case of 'here are 2 bats, without knowing anything or touching them which will you go for'? I'd have to take the prettier blade

Simmy · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:53:09 PM »

only way to tell is to test them!

get a bat with 10 perfect grains get a bat maker to press it then get an ugly bat with dirty face and woobly grains! press it the same.

and try them, i bet it doesnt really make much of a difference at all or if it does we wouldnt be able to tell

Canners · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:56:49 PM »

Quote from: Simmy on March 09, 2012, 01:53:09 PM

only way to tell is to test them!

get a bat with 10 perfect grains get a bat maker to press it then get an ugly bat with dirty face and woobly grains! press it the same.

and try them, i bet it doesnt really make much of a difference at all or if it does we wouldnt be able to tell

i agree with Simdog 100%

harry kovert · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2012, 01:57:20 PM »

Quote from: Talisman on March 09, 2012, 01:06:29 PM

Inspired by Norb's and his quest to test members on their knowledge I thought I'd prompt a debate about the much vaunted "Performance Willow".

I'll start off by saying that I believe we all want the maximum performance from our bat according to any set budget. So lets look at the face first, grains, what effect does the numbers, spacing and direction have?

What do we think of stain?, fleck?, pin knots?, dead knots?

Density, natural and forced.

What factors make a bat ugly yet perform?, is this in fact possible or simply the bat maker trying to sell off his low grade clefts?

I would think that the number and direction of grains has a major influence on the strength of the blade.

Knots in turn would be potential weak spots in the willow.

In terms of performance surely that would be down to mother nature. Moisture content, Wind speed and direction, speed of growth etc are things we have very little influence over yet can have an impact on why one piece of willow performs better than another......all other things being equal such as pressing etc....

Of course I'm no expert and am more than happy to stand corrected.

Harv

Author Topic: The Myth of Performance Willow (Read 16570 times)

Talisman

The Myth of Performance Willow

Ayrtek Cricket

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Talisman

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

ProWannabe88

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

tim2000s

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

ProWannabe88

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Simmy

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Talisman

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Kulli

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

ProWannabe88

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Talisman

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

ProWannabe88

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Simmy

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

Canners

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow

harry kovert

Re: The Myth of Performance Willow